Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Alex Caitlin
Page Views: 534 total · 6/month
Shared By: yevquest on Dec 22, 2011
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

If you have a problem with chipped routes, avoid Job. Ok, now that we've got that out of the way, on to the route. Job begins with easy, slightly scary choss for 40 feet, climbing past some spaced bolts to a funky traverse right. This leads to a great stance. [If you continue right it's 5.11, ending at the first anchor of Habanero].

The next 25 feet are the hardest climbing, making use of several chipped and enhanced 2 finger pockets with sometimes slippery feet. The clips are all a little hard so be aware of the ledge below. You'd probably miss it if you fell but be vigilant. Once you get to the tufa (remember, that's why the pockets were chipped), enjoy the climbing. It's never too hard, never too easy, always fun. From the last bolt, carefully climb to the anchors up and right (shared with the second pitch of Habanero). Falling here would be..well..fun to watch but fortunately the holds are big.

Location

On the left hand side of the outrage proper. The start is in an easy dihedral with a very low bolt. Shares the start with Palm Sunday and Job Restored, 2 routes left of the very chalked start of Habanero.

Protection

Lots of Bolts

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
I had remembered this as being one of my favorite routes at EPC and is on my list of routes to come back and Redpoint. I didn't realize there were that many (any) chipped holds, but I wasn't looking, and didn't get the chance to try it more than once. The Tufa climbing is absolutely amazing and well worth the bottom choss and traverse to get to. The extremely narrow Tufa is one of the few like it I've ever gotten to climb. Dec 22, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
I thought I was on Palm Sunday when I first did this route, or at least that was what I was wanting to get on. Both the description and comments are pretty dead on. I also did not realized any of the holds were chipped. The tufa climbing up top is fun and each pinch is not quite as good as you want it to be. I also thought a few of the clips were hard to make. Overall a great route and worth doing but if you want more bomber tufa climbing get on Surfer Rosa or Mothership Connection. I though both of these were significantly better routes, both in movement and quality of rock...... Jul 10, 2012
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
The start is very sketchy and you should have a no fall mentality until your standing on the ledge. Just a heads up to anyone trying this route Jan 23, 2014