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Routes in The Outrage Wall

A Fistful of Excuses S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Afro Juan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
British Invasion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Celestial Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Celestial Omnibus S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chile Piquín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleetus Walks the Plank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryin Brian S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Despachadora de Gomitas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Devil's Cabaña Boy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
El Hoyito S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Sendero Diablo (The Devil's Path) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eternal Fatalist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fit for Life S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flim Flam Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grocals S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Habanero S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Habanero Sunday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hechicero Oscuro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hurdy Gurdy Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Job Disgraced S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Route Big Tufa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montezuma's Tufa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mothership Connection S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
New Bolts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Excuses S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Palm Sunday S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Photo Route (aka. Shoestring Hooker) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery Down Under (1st Pitch) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steel Pulse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tacos de Trump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tax Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time for Livin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tu Primera Vez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott & Deanne Miller & Kurt Smith
Page Views: 8,663 total, 75/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 2, 2008 with updates
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description

P1: 5.9
P2: 5.11c
P3: 5.11b
P4: 5.10+
P5: 5.11a
P6: 5.7

Location

Start down low at the far right end of the Outrage Wall at a small alcove (about 5 meters left of La Prima Vez). The route trends up and left for the last three pitches.

The descent can be a little tricky as this route ends above overhanging terrain. The following descent description is taken from Ed and Tami Wright's guidebook and it worked well for us: "Climb down the left (west) side of the summit block to the top anchors on Fit For Life. The first person to descend must clip the single rope through all the bolts in order to reach the anchors on the ledge. Remember to tie the end of the rope to the anchor. The second person then ties on another rope and rappels on two ropes to retrieve the quickdraws. Once level with the ledge, pull in on the fixed rope. Easier to avoid the last pitch then rap 1 pitch then swing onto Afro Juan".

Protection

Bolted multi-pitch sport route. All anchors are bolted.

Photos

WAGbag
Denver, CO
 
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
 
One of the best climbs in the park. Watch for people below since it traverses left. The middle pitches all felt like 5.11- and had me smiling the whole time.

Skipping the last pitch leads to a big swing to Afro Juan. Acccording to Handsome Mike you can do the last pitch and come straight down into Afro Juan. We back-tracked the last 5.11a pitch then went into anther climb below. May 24, 2009
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.11b/c
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.11b/c
Super, super classic route. The 5.9 pitch felt awkward but everything else was solid climbing techy .11c pitch, juggy .11b with great movement. The fourth pitch, the 10.d pitch, was the most difficult to us. It doesn't have any move harder than 10+ however, it really pumped me out. The juggy .11b pitch into a small vertical, featured, gorgeous crimpy section to a sloppy roof crux was a difficult combo. Don't underestimate it. The following .11a pitch is really nice if you get to it before the sun hits you. Again, great movement. Easy to link pitch 5 + 6 as well. Jan 28, 2017
Jake Cantu
  5.11c
Jake Cantu  
  5.11c
Really great route. All of the pitches were phenomenal. Personally I enjoyed the 11a pitch better. I think the 10+ pitch is more technically challenging and beta intensive ant that the 11a is really straight forward. Grab big holds and pull them down hard! Hands down a Potrero classic.

Don't let all the crazy rap info and stories scare you away. Just stay calm, keep a good head on, think through things, and TIE YOUR KNOTS and you will be fine. All things that you should be doing anyway when rapping. Get on it! Dec 28, 2016
Morgan F. Smith
Texas
  5.11b/c
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
  5.11b/c
Absolutely incredible climb. Wild variation, well protected, and a very nice summit. The difficulty of the rap is defintiely over hyped, use common sense, clip the draws, clean em, and keep on. A 70m is best to shorten the amount of raps by one. Don't miss this one! Pitches 3 and 5, and overall, I felt the route was more like 11b. Definitely top it out to the summit, it's nice and you are already soo close. Amazing all around, kudos to the bolters and FA's! Feb 8, 2016
Marlene Machemy
Squamish
 
Marlene Machemy   Squamish
 
Fantastic climb! We only climbed the first five pitches and rapped down with one 70-meter rope. From the top of the fifth pitch (5.11a), rap down and swing left to Afro Juan. It helps to look for the anchors on your way up but they are approximately parallel to the anchors at the end of the fourth pitch of El Sendero Diablo. The second rappel involves an overhanging section. The first person going down can clip in to the bolts through the overhanging section. Make sure to tie the rope to the anchors once there so that the second person cleaning the draws does not get stuck in mid-air. One last rappel after that. If I recall, our 70-meter rope was just long enough for the second rappel. Jan 23, 2016
Anyone have info on new multi pitch 20 ft left of this route? Jan 1, 2016
BrianWS
  5.11c
BrianWS  
  5.11c
Downright amazing climb. The route covers multiple strata of rock and therefore has a distinct character for each pitch.

P1 is a sharp, pocketed slab similar to the base of Jungle Wall.
P2 is tough face climbing between awesome huecos.
P3 follows a crack system for a good portion of the climbing.
P4 is the money pitch. WILD rock on the face below the cardiac roof (a veneer of solid mudballs, mini tufas, and coral-like varnish)
P5 ends with airy climbing over a bulge.

The rappel could go badly very easily. Make sure you spot the neighboring rap stations (Afro Juan) on the way up to avoid potential epics. A 70m rope would give extra piece of mind. Jan 19, 2015
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
 
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
 
To find this route head up to the Outrage Wall and on the right end look for this small cave:



The 5.9 P1 ends at the anchor immediately to the left of the cave. From there follow the obvious bolt line through some of the best climbing in the park!


DO NOT let all the rumors about heinous rappels deter you from getting on this thing. They are unwarranted and you'll likely hear them from people who have never climbed the route...

Climb the 5.7 pitch to the summit. The FA'ist bolted it, so we clipped them out of respect. From there, rap the same 5.7 you just came up. NEXT: rap straight down and then SWING LEFT just a few feet to anchors you obviously noticed on the way up. From there, you'll notice you're in scary-exposed-freehanging-rappel-land everyone warned you about... no problem. First to descend clips ~3 bolts on the way down, then the second cleans them as (s)he descends to the anchor. Rap straight down from there. Dec 24, 2014
Charlie Shannon
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Charlie Shannon   Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
Like some other commenters, I thought the 11s were a bit soft but got totally bouted at the roof on the 10+! Excellent movement throughout with definitive cruxes linked by solid, enjoyable climbing. We ended up ascending the last 5.7 glory pitch and walking over to the set of anchors to the left. The descent took some advanced rap techniques, clipping bolts on the way down to negotiate the appreciable overhang and to avoid getting stuck out in empty space (I've heard stories of epic 5 hr hangs in the void due to accidentally passing bolts on the way down!) Make sure you're prepared to ascend your line to avoid a rescue if things get hairy. Nov 3, 2014
Ross Exler
New York
  5.11+
Ross Exler   New York
  5.11+
My favorite route of the ones that I did while I was down there. I thought the grades were stiff when compared to other .11s that we did. We went over to Afro Juan and simulrapped on GriGri's with the first clipping the bolts and then tying the rope off (actually he just anchored) to the anchor. Worked like a charm. Afro Juan looks ridiculously hard when you are going down it on rappel! Jan 4, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Thanks for the memory Mike - did this climb maybe 10 years ago and took several falls leading the 10d pitch! Think I managed to follow the 11 pitches clean? An ultra classic route! Apr 16, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Super Fantastic Climb!! One of my favorite throughout the trip. Every pitch is exactly like you want it, fun yet challenging. Each pitch has a few thought provoking sequences that are linked with quality climbing. The 10.d pitch is definitely stiff for the grade and the 11.a is very soft. We skipped the last 5.7 pitch and swung over to Afrojuan for a very airy rappel!

Two Thumbs WAY UP!! A MUST DO!! Jan 10, 2012