Type: Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott & Deanne Miller & Kurt Smith
Page Views: 12,189 total · 91/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 2, 2008 with improvements by Morgan F. Smith
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route

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P1: 5.9
P2: 5.11c
P3: 5.11b
P4: 5.10+
P5: 5.11a
P6: 5.7


Start down low at the far right end of the Outrage Wall at a small alcove (about 5 meters left of La Prima Vez). The route trends up and left for the last three pitches.

The descent can be a little tricky as this route ends above overhanging terrain. The following descent description is taken from Ed and Tami Wright's guidebook and it worked well for us: "Climb down the left (west) side of the summit block to the top anchors on Fit For Life. The first person to descend must clip the single rope through all the bolts in order to reach the anchors on the ledge. Remember to tie the end of the rope to the anchor. The second person then ties on another rope and rappels on two ropes to retrieve the quickdraws. Once level with the ledge, pull in on the fixed rope. Easier to avoid the last pitch then rap 1 pitch then swing onto Afro Juan".


Bolted multi-pitch sport route. All anchors are bolted.


Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO
One of the best climbs in the park. Watch for people below since it traverses left. The middle pitches all felt like 5.11- and had me smiling the whole time.

Skipping the last pitch leads to a big swing to Afro Juan. Acccording to Handsome Mike you can do the last pitch and come straight down into Afro Juan. We back-tracked the last 5.11a pitch then went into anther climb below. May 24, 2009
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Super Fantastic Climb!! One of my favorite throughout the trip. Every pitch is exactly like you want it, fun yet challenging. Each pitch has a few thought provoking sequences that are linked with quality climbing. The 10.d pitch is definitely stiff for the grade and the 11.a is very soft. We skipped the last 5.7 pitch and swung over to Afrojuan for a very airy rappel!

Two Thumbs WAY UP!! A MUST DO!! Jan 10, 2012
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Thanks for the memory Mike - did this climb maybe 10 years ago and took several falls leading the 10d pitch! Think I managed to follow the 11 pitches clean? An ultra classic route! Apr 16, 2012
Ross Exler
Denver, CO
Ross Exler   Denver, CO
My favorite route of the ones that I did while I was down there. I thought the grades were stiff when compared to other .11s that we did. We went over to Afro Juan and simulrapped on GriGri's with the first clipping the bolts and then tying the rope off (actually he just anchored) to the anchor. Worked like a charm. Afro Juan looks ridiculously hard when you are going down it on rappel! Jan 4, 2013
Charlie Shannon
Denver, CO
Charlie Shannon   Denver, CO
Like some other commenters, I thought the 11s were a bit soft but got totally bouted at the roof on the 10+! Excellent movement throughout with definitive cruxes linked by solid, enjoyable climbing. We ended up ascending the last 5.7 glory pitch and walking over to the set of anchors to the left. The descent took some advanced rap techniques, clipping bolts on the way down to negotiate the appreciable overhang and to avoid getting stuck out in empty space (I've heard stories of epic 5 hr hangs in the void due to accidentally passing bolts on the way down!) Make sure you're prepared to ascend your line to avoid a rescue if things get hairy. Nov 3, 2014
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
To find this route head up to the Outrage Wall and on the right end look for this small cave:

The 5.9 P1 ends at the anchor immediately to the left of the cave. From there follow the obvious bolt line through some of the best climbing in the park!

DO NOT let all the rumors about heinous rappels deter you from getting on this thing. They are unwarranted and you'll likely hear them from people who have never climbed the route...

Climb the 5.7 pitch to the summit. The FA'ist bolted it, so we clipped them out of respect. From there, rap the same 5.7 you just came up. NEXT: rap straight down and then SWING LEFT just a few feet to anchors you obviously noticed on the way up. From there, you'll notice you're in scary-exposed-freehanging-rappel-land everyone warned you about... no problem. First to descend clips ~3 bolts on the way down, then the second cleans them as (s)he descends to the anchor. Rap straight down from there. Dec 24, 2014
Downright amazing climb. The route covers multiple strata of rock and therefore has a distinct character for each pitch.

P1 is a sharp, pocketed slab similar to the base of Jungle Wall.
P2 is tough face climbing between awesome huecos.
P3 follows a crack system for a good portion of the climbing.
P4 is the money pitch. WILD rock on the face below the cardiac roof (a veneer of solid mudballs, mini tufas, and coral-like varnish)
P5 ends with airy climbing over a bulge.

The rappel could go badly very easily. Make sure you spot the neighboring rap stations (Afro Juan) on the way up to avoid potential epics. A 70m rope would give extra piece of mind. Jan 19, 2015
Anyone have info on new multi pitch 20 ft left of this route? Jan 1, 2016
Marlene Machemy
Marlene Machemy   Squamish
Fantastic climb! We only climbed the first five pitches and rapped down with one 70-meter rope. From the top of the fifth pitch (5.11a), rap down and swing left to Afro Juan. It helps to look for the anchors on your way up but they are approximately parallel to the anchors at the end of the fourth pitch of El Sendero Diablo. The second rappel involves an overhanging section. The first person going down can clip in to the bolts through the overhanging section. Make sure to tie the rope to the anchors once there so that the second person cleaning the draws does not get stuck in mid-air. One last rappel after that. If I recall, our 70-meter rope was just long enough for the second rappel. Jan 23, 2016
Morgan F. Smith
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
Absolutely incredible climb. Wild variation, well protected, and a very nice summit. The difficulty of the rap is defintiely over hyped, use common sense, clip the draws, clean em, and keep on. A 70m is best to shorten the amount of raps by one. Don't miss this one! Pitches 3 and 5, and overall, I felt the route was more like 11b. Definitely top it out to the summit, it's nice and you are already soo close. Amazing all around, kudos to the bolters and FA's! Feb 8, 2016
Jake Cantu
Jake Cantu  
Really great route. All of the pitches were phenomenal. Personally I enjoyed the 11a pitch better. I think the 10+ pitch is more technically challenging and beta intensive ant that the 11a is really straight forward. Grab big holds and pull them down hard! Hands down a Potrero classic.

Don't let all the crazy rap info and stories scare you away. Just stay calm, keep a good head on, think through things, and TIE YOUR KNOTS and you will be fine. All things that you should be doing anyway when rapping. Get on it! Dec 28, 2016
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
Super, super classic route. The 5.9 pitch felt awkward but everything else was solid climbing techy .11c pitch, juggy .11b with great movement. The fourth pitch, the 10.d pitch, was the most difficult to us. It doesn't have any move harder than 10+ however, it really pumped me out. The juggy .11b pitch into a small vertical, featured, gorgeous crimpy section to a sloppy roof crux was a difficult combo. Don't underestimate it. The following .11a pitch is really nice if you get to it before the sun hits you. Again, great movement. Easy to link pitch 5 + 6 as well. Jan 28, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
I rappelled at the top of the 5th pitch. My strategy was to lower straight down until I was about 10' above the Pitch 4 Diablo anchors and then I swung over and did a few traverse moves to get to the anchors of Afro Juan: Which despite comments to the contrary are definitely NOT visible from El Sendero Diablo. I had to do a few 5.10 traverse moves and there was some loose rock in there, but it worked out well. You will definitely want an auto-locking rappel setup to do this. The party above me rapped left immediately and starting clipping bolts and they seemed to have a pretty bad time getting over there.

The rap is fine. Don't be stupid, clip draws going down Afro Juan, tie your second to the anchor, and you'll be down in no time. Jan 19, 2018
Kevin Heinrich
Kinda All Over
Kevin Heinrich   Kinda All Over
A lot of out of date descent info on this page. This is how I got down with no shenanigans at all (we used a 70m although I think 60 is fine):

-Rap the 6th and 5th pitches back to their respective belays.
-Once atop the 10d (4th) pitch, rap straight down from this belay (do not follow the 10d bolt line and do not clip directionals) until you are at the height of the roof of the 10d crux. On the far left side of the roof (which should be near where you are rapping down) you will see an anchor with chains. Use this anchor and follow this route for a few more rappels to the ground.

You're welcome. Feb 22, 2018
Matt Sellick
Matt Sellick  
follow above rap beta, no shenanigans and you could probably rap with a 60 and thus carry less rope... 11b pitch is the pumpiest, 10+ pitch is 10+ if you don't botch the beta - the climbing style changed on this pitch but goes at the grade.

To reiterate: rap p 6. Rap pitch 5. Rap to 10 d roof and there are chains on the left just below roof. Continue rapping fall line. Straightforward! Mar 8, 2018
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
In case anyone was wondering, you will need 15 quickdraws to do this incredible route. The tricky 10d pitch is the only one that needs this many. Dec 31, 2018