Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Mark Grundon Karla Moya
Page Views: 451 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark Grundon on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Crux down low. There is a fixed draw for the crux clip. The crux is very height dependent. Probably a harder grade for shorter people.

Location

To the left of Slippery Down Under. Right of Devils Cabana Boy.

Protection

bolts on fixed chain draw

Photos

- No Photos -
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12a
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12a
This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar Dec 21, 2014
BrianWS
  5.12
BrianWS  
  5.12
Unique is right... not so sure about how much I actually enjoyed the route, though. The rock looks and feels like it has been covered in a layer of fossilized candle wax.

The crux is extremely height dependent, requiring a full span move from an undercling to a pocket, followed by a dicey clip. Hard as nails for the short, and apparently no cakewalk for the tall either. Jan 19, 2015
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
Honestly, I can't say I was psyched on this route. The first four bolts were fun, but then it's just low angle edging up slippery smooth rock. Jan 9, 2016