Type: Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Kurt Smith & Ned Harris - 1996
Page Views: 1,375 total · 39/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 11, 2016
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Time for Livin' is the continuation of the ever popular Habañero (I thought it deserved its own entry) and is the first route to the top of the Outrage Wall. It is supposedly Kurt Smith's favorite route of all time, and for what it's worth, definitely my favorite route in Potrero (so far). 6 varied, sustained, and wild pitches gently traverse leftwards as they work their way up a natural line of features to the top of the wall. The climbing is continuously good, the position spectacular, and the rock stays mostly dry in the rain. The only drawbacks are that every belay is uncomfortably hanging and a few bolts are in really bad shape (and some are poorly positioned) - though I'd say most climbers who belong on this route should be able to manage these things.

Here's the breakdown:

P1 (5.12b): 8 bolts. Pockets and edges; reachy. Link into P2.

P2 (5.12b): 7 bolts. Tricky small tufa blobs.

P3 (5.12a): 9 bolts. Larger tufas and steeper rock lead to a high traverse left to the anchor.

P4 (5.12c): 9 bolts. A tough lieback leads to a black crimp and a crux cauliflower tufa. Mandatory hard climbing. Trends left.

P5 (5.12d): 11 bolts. A traverse left from the belay past poorly located (too low) bolts joins with Devil's Cabaña Boy. Then interesting climbing interspersed with rests to a final blind crux up and right over a bulge to the anchor.

P6 (5.12b): 9 bolts. Two tough sections separated by a no-hands rest; the second section involves a throw to a hidden pocket. A long runout through a cactus jungle and loose block maze leads to the top of the wall.

Descent: Rap straight down Devil's Cabaña Boy with a single 80m rope - otherwise use two ropes. It would be possible but difficult (not recommended) to rap the route itself with a single 60m rope.

Rating this route is difficult. There are Potrero Chico grades and then there are grades in the rest of the world. Perhaps the overall effort required to send this baby is 5.13a (the given rating) but there are no moves on the route that would merit the 13 rating on their own. That said, several sections would be extremely hard to onsight (especially considering the lack of traffic this route receives) and one section in particular on the 4th pitch requires climbing a solid 5.12 crux well above a bolt and cannot be aided.

Protection

A dozen draws. An 80m rope or two ropes. A belay seat.

Photos

Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
 
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
 
Thanks for posting this Josh, your description is spot on. I had done very little multi-pitch sport climbing before going to Potrero, but this is easily the best I've ever done and perhaps my favorite of the trip- it's absolutely world class. The only problem I have with this route is that it doesn't get climbed enough- no chalk on pitches 3-6 make it very hard to onsight, but still fun and adventurous nonetheless. I thought Pitches 3 and 6 were hard for the grade, but the crux of Pitch 5 was pretty spot on for 12d. Expect to work up a mean pump and be prepared to take some exciting, airy falls if you blow it. The wall gets sun all day so start early if the weather is warm and you'll thank yourself for it later. We did it with a 70m rope and a 60m tag line and were able to make it down in three raps, just don't forget to leave directionals for the second so you can pull them into the wall at each station, 'cause this thing is STEEP. Get on it! Jan 19, 2017
Hey josh, what do you mean by portrero Chico grades? I've never been before. Jun 7, 2017