All Locations > International > North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > The Outrage Wall
Time for Livin'
Avg: 4 from 6 votes
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||Kurt Smith & Ned Harris - 1996|
|Page Views:||1,002 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jan 11, 2016|
|Admins:||MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Nate Ball|
DescriptionTime for Livin' is the continuation of the ever popular Habañero (I thought it deserved its own entry) and is the first route to the top of the Outrage Wall. It is supposedly Kurt Smith's favorite route of all time, and for what it's worth, definitely my favorite route in Potrero (so far). 6 varied, sustained, and wild pitches gently traverse leftwards as they work their way up a natural line of features to the top of the wall. The climbing is continuously good, the position spectacular, and the rock stays mostly dry in the rain. The only drawbacks are that every belay is uncomfortably hanging and a few bolts are in really bad shape (and some are poorly positioned) - though I'd say most climbers who belong on this route should be able to manage these things.
Here's the breakdown:
P1 (5.12b): 8 bolts. Pockets and edges; reachy. Link into P2.
P2 (5.12b): 7 bolts. Tricky small tufa blobs.
P3 (5.12a): 9 bolts. Larger tufas and steeper rock lead to a high traverse left to the anchor.
P4 (5.12c): 9 bolts. A tough lieback leads to a black crimp and a crux cauliflower tufa. Mandatory hard climbing. Trends left.
P5 (5.12d): 11 bolts. A traverse left from the belay past poorly located (too low) bolts joins with Devil's Cabaña Boy. Then interesting climbing interspersed with rests to a final blind crux up and right over a bulge to the anchor.
P6 (5.12b): 9 bolts. Two tough sections separated by a no-hands rest; the second section involves a throw to a hidden pocket. A long runout through a cactus jungle and loose block maze leads to the top of the wall.
Descent: Rap straight down Devil's Cabaña Boy with a single 80m rope - otherwise use two ropes. It would be possible but difficult (not recommended) to rap the route itself with a single 60m rope.
Rating this route is difficult. There are Potrero Chico grades and then there are grades in the rest of the world. Perhaps the overall effort required to send this baby is 5.13a (the given rating) but there are no moves on the route that would merit the 13 rating on their own. That said, several sections would be extremely hard to onsight (especially considering the lack of traffic this route receives) and one section in particular on the 4th pitch requires climbing a solid 5.12 crux well above a bolt and cannot be aided.