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Routes in The Outrage Wall

A Fistful of Excuses S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Afro Juan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
British Invasion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Celestial Connection S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Celestial Omnibus S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chile Piquín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cleetus Walks the Plank S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryin Brian S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Despachadora de Gomitas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Devil's Cabaña Boy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EL Mono Dedo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
El Hoyito S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Sendero Diablo (The Devil's Path) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Esperandote S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eternal Fatalist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fit for Life S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flim Flam Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Grocals S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Habanero S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Habanero Sunday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hechicero Oscuro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hurdy Gurdy Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Job Disgraced S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Route Big Tufa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montezuma's Tufa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mothership Connection S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
New Bolts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Excuses S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Palm Sunday S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Photo Route (aka. Shoestring Hooker) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slippery Down Under (1st Pitch) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steel Pulse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tacos de Trump S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tax Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Time for Livin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tu Primera Vez S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 637 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chalu Kim on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is 5.11a. The 2nd pitch is 5.12d. It leads to the Bronco Bowls, a cave. The 2nd pitch climbs steep pockets thru large hueco to anchors.

Anyone wanting to try 5.11a, the pros are great and its rating is firm.

Protection

13 bolts to the first anchor. 70 m rope and 80 m rope preferred

Photos

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This route is slightly disappointing because it comes so close to being a classic.

It's got several drilled sinker two-finger pockets that allow passage between spaced hueco systems. Some of the edges looked to be chipped/enhanced as well, though it was hard to tell with the rock quality.

The rock doesn't live up to the excellent stone on Celestial and Fit for Life. It's crumbly drainage limestone, with a particularly concerning section leaving the belay. The otherwise cool pinch features kept dissolving on me. A good scrubbing and more traffic might help with this somewhat.

FInally, the bolts are nearing the end of their lifespan, with nearly all of them being rusty spinners. The run to the first bolt is a definite no-fall zone in a section of bad stone.

Despite all that, this route has a lot going for it. It's got an amazing position, and the moves are gymnastic and powerful. With a little bit of a facelift, it could definitely rank as one of the cooler 12+ pitches in the canyon. Feb 15, 2016