Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 748 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chalu Kim on Jan 24, 2012
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch is 5.11a. The 2nd pitch is 5.12d. It leads to the Bronco Bowls, a cave. The 2nd pitch climbs steep pockets thru large hueco to anchors.

Anyone wanting to try 5.11a, the pros are great and its rating is firm.

Protection

13 bolts to the first anchor. 70 m rope and 80 m rope preferred

Photos

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ChrisHau
Hanover, NH
ChrisHau   Hanover, NH
This route is slightly disappointing because it comes so close to being a classic.

It's got several drilled sinker two-finger pockets that allow passage between spaced hueco systems. Some of the edges looked to be chipped/enhanced as well, though it was hard to tell with the rock quality.

The rock doesn't live up to the excellent stone on Celestial and Fit for Life. It's crumbly drainage limestone, with a particularly concerning section leaving the belay. The otherwise cool pinch features kept dissolving on me. A good scrubbing and more traffic might help with this somewhat.

FInally, the bolts are nearing the end of their lifespan, with nearly all of them being rusty spinners. The run to the first bolt is a definite no-fall zone in a section of bad stone.

Despite all that, this route has a lot going for it. It's got an amazing position, and the moves are gymnastic and powerful. With a little bit of a facelift, it could definitely rank as one of the cooler 12+ pitches in the canyon. Feb 15, 2016
Stig .
Seattle
 
Stig .   Seattle
 
Tried this yesterday and have to echo what Chris said. So close to being so classic. I think it would be worth updating the hardware on this one. I did a bit of scrubbing and I think it will clean up except there's a huge amount of shit in the largest hueco. I cleared a decent amount out but... gross. But you can't argue with the climbing and position on the steepest part of outrage. Jan 5, 2018