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Routes in The Hawk Hatchery
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1-800-Dentist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Choshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dangling Digit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hawk's Nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkward T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lions And Tigers And Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Realm of the Flying Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03357, -116.03978 |
| FA: | James Weger & Aleida Matthies, April 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,041 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Dec 20, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the next obvious crack line to the left of Hawkward & Thirteen Cheeps (both 5.10b). This route is approximately 100' left and uphill from Hawk's Nest 5.7.
This obvious finger crack starts off a ledge about 15' up. The traditional start traverses in from the left on the ledge. A much better (and harder) alternative is to do the bouldery direct start of ?? (5.10b) past a bolt to gain the crack. A few fun moves up the short and steep finger crack lead to a horizontal. Traverse the horizontal finger crack to the right around the corner and finish up easy face, or finish direct on ?? on grainy slab past another bolt. Gear belay or sling a large boulder up top.
Some of the fingerlocks are so good you might start to wonder about the route name...
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