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Lions And Tigers And Bears
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in The Hawk Hatchery
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1-800-Dentist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Choshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dangling Digit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hawk's Nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkward T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lions And Tigers And Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Realm of the Flying Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03357, -116.03978 |
| FA: | Geoff Archer and Jeff Kasten, March 1989 |
| Page Views: | 754 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located high on the NE hillside of the Hawk Hatchery, about 200 yards behind the route Realm Of The Flying Monkeys. It climbs a crack to a ledge, and then follows three bolts up the right side of an arete.
The crack is less than inspiring, with poor rock to start that gradually improves (but never becomes great). Climbing the arete is the reason to do this climb. Interesting moves that involve pulling/laybacking directly on the edge of the arete lead to a classic Josh top out.
This climb isn't worth the walk up the hill, but if you've come this far to do Realm Of The Flying Monkeys, it's worth the tick. I'd have to say NSC* and MIWT**, one star of five.
NSC - needs some cleanupMIWT - may improve with traffic
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