Lions And Tigers And Bears
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Geoff Archer and Jeff Kasten, March 1989 |
Page Views: | 695 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located high on the NE hillside of the Hawk Hatchery, about 200 yards behind the route Realm Of The Flying Monkeys. It climbs a crack to a ledge, and then follows three bolts up the right side of an arete.
The crack is less than inspiring, with poor rock to start that gradually improves (but never becomes great). Climbing the arete is the reason to do this climb. Interesting moves that involve pulling/laybacking directly on the edge of the arete lead to a classic Josh top out.
This climb isn't worth the walk up the hill, but if you've come this far to do Realm Of The Flying Monkeys, it's worth the tick. I'd have to say NSC* and MIWT**, one star of five.
NSC - needs some cleanupMIWT - may improve with traffic
The crack is less than inspiring, with poor rock to start that gradually improves (but never becomes great). Climbing the arete is the reason to do this climb. Interesting moves that involve pulling/laybacking directly on the edge of the arete lead to a classic Josh top out.
This climb isn't worth the walk up the hill, but if you've come this far to do Realm Of The Flying Monkeys, it's worth the tick. I'd have to say NSC* and MIWT**, one star of five.
NSC - needs some cleanupMIWT - may improve with traffic
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