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Realm of the Flying Monkeys
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in The Hawk Hatchery
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1-800-Dentist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Choshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dangling Digit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hawk's Nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hawkward T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lions And Tigers And Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Realm of the Flying Monkeys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03357, -116.03978 |
| FA: | Geoff Archer and Dave Stoner, November 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,238 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Uphill and left (south) of the main Hawk Hatchery Crag is a large block with a distinctive pointed arete containing this route.
Short but entertaining, this climbs a vertical arete/face with mostly good edges on quality patina. A good route to do if climbed in conjunction with some of the other nearby routes in the area.
Given a more difficult rating in various guidebooks, this route as some of the others in this area, is a bit easier than suggested. Two, maybe three stars out of five.
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