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Routes in Zappa's Tooth

Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Colacino, Duncan
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Oct 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This line has some nice stemming, some decent jams, a bit of face, and a touch of OW. The crux is moving through the roof higher up the pitch. The "trouble" came in the form of a flake that chose to commit suicide after I had been stemming off of it for about a minute placing gear.

Well, you can cool it,
You can heat it . . .
'Cause, baby, I don't need it . . .
Take your TV tube and eat it
'N all that phony stuff on sports
'N all the unconfirmed reports
You know I watched that rotten box
Until my head begin to hurt
From checkin' out the way
The newsman say they get the dirt
Before the guys on channel so-and-so

And further they assert
That any show they'll interrupt
To bring you news if it comes up
They say that if the place blows up
They will be the first to tell,
Because the boys they got downtown
Are workin' hard and doin' swell,
And if anybody gets the news
Before it hits the street,
They say that no one blabs it faster
Their coverage can't be beat....

Location

This is the obvious crack at the right end of the crag. Looks wide, but there is no real OW climbing required.

Protection

Standard rack. It takes good gear.

Photos

Run-out on easy stemming. About 90 feet to a logical belay and easy scrambling. Jul 8, 2013