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Routes in Zappa's Tooth

Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 9,100 ft
GPS: 40.178, -105.49 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,500 total, 33/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Sep 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Zappa's Tooth is a 175' high secluded crag with really good rock and an outstanding view of the Allenspark valley, Mt. Meeker, and Wild Basin. Since it faces west, it enjoys afternoon sun and at 9,100' is perfect for the roasting days of summer. Route locations are generally listed with reference to "the Cavity", which is the large recessed alcove in the center-left of the face. The character of this rock is really full of features. The steep sections are often easier than they look. Knobular protuberances are everywhere.

There is still some development left to be done here too, so the adventurous aspect of FAs has not yet been exhausted. Fixed anchors, if any are required, should be placed from the ground up. Think Zappaesque. As folks have already very likely climbed these lines in the past, these are more likely VFAs than FAs.

Zappa's Tooth was born after an evening of Zappa Plays Zappa in Denver the night before the first ascents. If you're fond of Frank Zappa or fine guitar playing, you'll understand. The route names are of course Zappa tunes, etc.

L->R:

A. Flakes, 8, 1p, 125', gear.
B. What Would Frank Do?, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
C. Dirty Love, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
D. Sheik Yerbouti, 9 PG-13, 1p, 175', gear.
E. Central Scrutinizer, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
F. Titties & Beer, 8+, 1p, 150', gear.
G. Spinach is my New Lettuce, 8 PG-13, 1p, 150', gear.
H. Trouble Every Day, 8, 1p, 150', gear.

Getting There

The crag is located in proximity to The Ironclads and Punk Rock (see the map below). Take CO Highway 7 to Bunce School Road. This road has been greatly improved recently (summer 2011) due to logging activity in the area. Follow Bunce School road to the Punk Rock turn-off and follow this as far as you can. If you have a high-clearance vehicle and some skill, it's possible to drive much closer to this crag on FR 216A, possibly to within a half-mile if you have a serious rig. The road loops, but has a spur at the high point of the loop that leads to the top of the saddle behind the Ironclads. I recommend taking the left fork of the loop - some road building may be required. There is a sign at the saddle that says 216A "Dead End" (see pic below), and some cables have been placed to the right to prevent vehicles from continuing. Hang a right here and follow an old trail that leads up and over the hill to the backside of the Tooth.

The crag is clearly visible across the valley when heading south down the hill from Allenspark.

If you find UTM coordinates much better than lat/long as I do: 13 0458248 E, 4447545 N.

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Like Bill mentions, take the left fork of the loop, and like George mentions, hiking up isn't bad and is likely just as fast as driving that "road".
Once you get to the top and before the road heads back north, veer south following the path of least resistance and you'll soon be behind this crag. Drop down the south end to the base and the climbing. Dec 13, 2013
I hiked to the top and also mountain-biked by this granite tor when I lived near Allenspark, in 2003. It faces northwest and is a lightning rod on a broad high mountaintop. The approach stated in the description traverses a lot of high ground before going down to the Tooth. To reverse this approach, you must go back UP, across the mountaintop before gradually going down to the southeast, to the 4WD road. Thunderheads can build almost overhead and out of sight.

Unless you're into driving (or attempting to drive, then hiking, as we did) the ugly, gnarly, slow 4WD roads, you can hike directly from the north. From where the posted ("View from the north") Tooth photo was taken (which was really from the northeast), drive farther northwest and west on Highway 7. Park at the long scenic pullout (that has big info signs). The Tooth is out of sight from this pullout. Cross the highway and discreetly enter the forest to the south, away from posted private land. Reversing this route provides the quickest escape from threatening weather. Jul 8, 2013

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