Zappa's Tooth Rock Climbing
Routes in Zappa's Tooth
|Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|GPS:||40.178, -105.49 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||2,500 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Duncan on Sep 17, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionZappa's Tooth is a 175' high secluded crag with really good rock and an outstanding view of the Allenspark valley, Mt. Meeker, and Wild Basin. Since it faces west, it enjoys afternoon sun and at 9,100' is perfect for the roasting days of summer. Route locations are generally listed with reference to "the Cavity", which is the large recessed alcove in the center-left of the face. The character of this rock is really full of features. The steep sections are often easier than they look. Knobular protuberances are everywhere.
There is still some development left to be done here too, so the adventurous aspect of FAs has not yet been exhausted. Fixed anchors, if any are required, should be placed from the ground up. Think Zappaesque. As folks have already very likely climbed these lines in the past, these are more likely VFAs than FAs.
Zappa's Tooth was born after an evening of Zappa Plays Zappa in Denver the night before the first ascents. If you're fond of Frank Zappa or fine guitar playing, you'll understand. The route names are of course Zappa tunes, etc.
A. Flakes, 8, 1p, 125', gear.
B. What Would Frank Do?, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
C. Dirty Love, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
D. Sheik Yerbouti, 9 PG-13, 1p, 175', gear.
E. Central Scrutinizer, 9, 1p, 175', gear.
F. Titties & Beer, 8+, 1p, 150', gear.
G. Spinach is my New Lettuce, 8 PG-13, 1p, 150', gear.
H. Trouble Every Day, 8, 1p, 150', gear.
Getting ThereThe crag is located in proximity to The Ironclads and Punk Rock (see the map below). Take CO Highway 7 to Bunce School Road. This road has been greatly improved recently (summer 2011) due to logging activity in the area. Follow Bunce School road to the Punk Rock turn-off and follow this as far as you can. If you have a high-clearance vehicle and some skill, it's possible to drive much closer to this crag on FR 216A, possibly to within a half-mile if you have a serious rig. The road loops, but has a spur at the high point of the loop that leads to the top of the saddle behind the Ironclads. I recommend taking the left fork of the loop - some road building may be required. There is a sign at the saddle that says 216A "Dead End" (see pic below), and some cables have been placed to the right to prevent vehicles from continuing. Hang a right here and follow an old trail that leads up and over the hill to the backside of the Tooth.
The crag is clearly visible across the valley when heading south down the hill from Allenspark.
If you find UTM coordinates much better than lat/long as I do: 13 0458248 E, 4447545 N.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season