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Routes in Zappa's Tooth

Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 175 ft
FA: George Bracksieck and Ryan Watts
Page Views: 296 total, 6/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

To the left of Dirty Love is a distinct crack/chimney system that parallels DL. It looks dirtier than Love. What would Frank do?

I started up the short crack to the left of DL. A short ways up, I stepped left, around an elaborate stack of blocks that resembles a small sculpture. Then I placed pro, angled a little to the right, then moved straight up. Loose holds and blocks were encountered throughout. Would Frank trundle, or leave those for the next party to enjoy? We chose to leave everything where we found it.

The crux was passing the short chimney visible in the top-left of the posted DL route photo, without using the obvious holds, which were loose, and while running the rope away from the rubble at the top of chimney. A belay anchor was made by placing a long loop of rope around the biggest block on the summit ridge, up a low-angle slab to climber's right.

Location

Start in a crack about six feet left of DL's beginning crack. WWFD is the obvious crack/chimney system that parallels DL to the left. It is obvious in the DL route photo.

Protection

I placed two #4 and one #5 C4s, along with some standard rack.

Photos

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