What Would Frank Do?
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Routes in Zappa's Tooth
|Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 175 ft|
|FA:||George Bracksieck and Ryan Watts|
|Page Views:||296 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||George Bracksieck on Jul 8, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionTo the left of Dirty Love is a distinct crack/chimney system that parallels DL. It looks dirtier than Love. What would Frank do?
I started up the short crack to the left of DL. A short ways up, I stepped left, around an elaborate stack of blocks that resembles a small sculpture. Then I placed pro, angled a little to the right, then moved straight up. Loose holds and blocks were encountered throughout. Would Frank trundle, or leave those for the next party to enjoy? We chose to leave everything where we found it.
The crux was passing the short chimney visible in the top-left of the posted DL route photo, without using the obvious holds, which were loose, and while running the rope away from the rubble at the top of chimney. A belay anchor was made by placing a long loop of rope around the biggest block on the summit ridge, up a low-angle slab to climber's right.
LocationStart in a crack about six feet left of DL's beginning crack. WWFD is the obvious crack/chimney system that parallels DL to the left. It is obvious in the DL route photo.
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