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Routes in Zappa's Tooth

Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Colacino, Duncan
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Oct 4, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route follows discontinuous cracks up a nice, clean face. The gear is interesting, and one should be comfortable with placing wires of all sizes in some slightly uncanny but secure placements. The physical crux is shortly after leaving the ground, but the psychological crux is somewhere up there. Start in a small, right-leaning dihedral that has a 2'x 2' tiny roof a few feet up. Follow the logical line of cracks up.

Location

This is the clean face to the left of the Trouble Every Day dihedral, and about 25' to the right of the Titties and Beer dihedral. There is a patch of "clean" orange rock just to the left of the line. See the photo.

Protection

Standard rack, make sure you have a good selection of wires, including brass.

Photos

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