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Routes in Zappa's Tooth

Central Scrutinizer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheik Yerbouti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Titties & Beer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trouble Every Day T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What Would Frank Do? T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 175 ft
FA: Colacino, Duncan
Page Views: 101 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Dirty Love is one of the better routes on the Tooth. Some non-standard moves makes the climbing funky in a very fun sort of way. The features are all there, but stringing them together is the business. Climb up and to the right of the 2 small bushes... a few stem-jam-body-contorting moves later, climb through the bulge into a nice jam crack. Follow this up to the arete. Climb directly up the arete for a couple of moves until you can step back left into the dihedral. Jam/stem up to the top.

The poodle bites!
The poodle chews it!


Start at or 15' left of the orange dihedral. The orange dihedral is also the start to Sheik Yerbouti and The Central Scrutinizer, located on the right side of the Cavity. See the photo.


Standard rack, with double #2/3 Camalots and a chunk of wide gear to protect the funk-o-rama.



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