Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Nikki Smith, summer 98
Page Views: 576 total · 4/month
Shared By: Boissal . on Aug 27, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts@SEMICOLON@ please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Sitting all by its lonesome self on a squat block is a short 2 bolts affair. While at first sight it seems like its name will be its only redeeming quality, Lustography climb really well for a highball boulder problem on bolts. And it was drilled by hand!

Start with a difficult throw to an edge or just be tall (don't dab on the left wall). Clip the first bolt and mantle a shelf, not necessarily in that order. Good holds and longish reaches lead to a second bolt then things ease up to the anchor.
Surprisingly fun!

Location Suggest change

You'll find this little guy about 15' right of Novacain on a square detached block. Look for anchors you can practically jump to from the ground...

Protection Suggest change

2 bolts to metolius rap bolts.
Optional small gear (000 to 1 C3s) can protect the "runout" between the bolts.


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