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Routes in Scout Lake

A-Climb-A-Tize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Streak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ed's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gone With the Wind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Eggs and Ham T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hero Maker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Huck's Fin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lustography S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Novacain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shinangwav T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: James Taylor, Carl Begal, 1993
Page Views: 124 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous. Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Near the center of Book Cliffs is a large open book, with two bolted lines on the left wall (Guillotine and Blues Streak), a broken pillar in the corner, and an attractive green face on the right wall (Green Eggs and Ham). To the right of the buttress/arete formed by the right-side of the green face (A-climb-a-tize) is a slightly right-leaning crack leading to an obvious roof. Climb this (some possible loose rock, but inconsequential), judiciously turn the roof, and continue up face to the top.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3 inches. Belay from gear, using the Green Eggs and Ham anchors for back-up as needed. Descend by rapping off the Green Eggs anchors.

Location

In the middle of Book Cliffs, approximately 20 feet right of Green Eggs and Ham.

Photos

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Solace
 
Solace  
 
Kudos to the first ascenders. Carl & James first did this route at night with headlamps (I watched them from the lake). I went back the following day to climb it in the daylight and was impressed by their line. Takes gear well, roof is fun & readily protected. Can't speak for top anchors, none of the routes we did in the early 90's had anchors. We just built a trad anchor, brought the second up and walked off. Jun 14, 2016
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Novocain.
Bit loose at the bottom, the moves straight out of the roof are burly and a bit painful (sharp edges in the crack) and the upper face is great. There's a few good cracks (around loose blocks) to build an anchor. Bring your second up and walk to the bolted anchors of Green Egg. Rap from your stuff and retrieve it later. Aug 27, 2011
EAS Fett
  5.9
EAS Fett  
  5.9
I think the book said there were anchors at the top of the route but all I found was a shit load of duct tape on the lip and some chopped bolts. I climbed this with my girl friend that really doesn't climb so I had to build a anchor next to the chopped bolts, lower to the ground and TR to get my gear back. I saw the anchors for green egg but just saw bolts that really were not set for rapping, I chose the walk off. Not as solid of rock as I thought it would be and the roof (the best part) seems harder than 5.8, I will give it a 5.9 Sep 8, 2009