Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknow
Page Views: 138 total · 3/month
Shared By: Stan Pitcher on Jul 16, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details
Access Issue: Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts@SEMICOLON@ please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous. Details

Description

Sweet trad line up the shallow open-book on the arete left of Guillotine. Great gear and really fun climbing!

Location

Just left of Guillotine, the yellow TCU placement used to start that route can also be used for Huck (use long sling). We went left at the top and used the anchors for the 11 to get down.

Protection

Single set of cams with some large nuts should suffice. Doubles of small cams might be nice.

Photos

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Solace  
In the summer of 1995, I climbed this route believing I was the first to do so. I gave it the name "Huck's Fin". However, about 15' from the top I discovered an old #3 stopper lodged in a small crack. I spoke with veterans Court Richards, and Dave Smith (REI) who decades prior, had both worked at Steiner I their late teens. They were notable aid climbers in their day and their resume's included many other aid/trad routes in the Wasatch. Though they were unable to positively confirm that they were the first to claim this route, the age of the stopper and the dates they worked up there coincide. For what it's worth, they should be credited for spotting the potential in this route. Jun 13, 2016