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Routes in Scout Lake

A-Climb-A-Tize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Streak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ed's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gone With the Wind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Eggs and Ham T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hero Maker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Huck's Fin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lustography S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Novacain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shinangwav T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Kevin Rogers, Cheri Smith, Nathan Smith, 1998
Page Views: 560 total · 5/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details
Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts@SEMICOLON@ please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous. Details

Description

The route described here may be a slight variation of that described in Smith'’s and Tustig'’s 2004 guide. Toward the right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs is a striking, but short (about 30 feet), square-cut face with an arete on its right margin. Start about 10-15 feet left of the arete (not just right of the arete as described in the guide --– that route is Hero Maker (5.11a)). Climb a disjointed crack system to its end, step right, then face climb to the top. The guide indicates that Gone With the Wind may be on the cleaner face between the disjointed crack system and the arete, but that line appears a bit harder than 5.7 and may be more difficult to protect –-- although it looks like the better route!

Smith and Tustig in their guide say that the section of the cliff with Gone With the Wind is used regularly by the Boy Scouts, and they encourage climbers to go elsewhere when the scouts are there. Makes sense to me.

Location

Right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs, left of an obvious arete with four bolts (Hero Maker).

Protection

Protects decently with a good range of cams (micros up). Belay from two bolts several feet to the east. Scramble down a short gully to the east to descend.

Photos

Solace  
"Gone With the Wind" stays within arms reach of the right side of the right leaning block formation. "A Seperate Peace" is on the far left side of the same formation between the wall and the detached block (with Jabba on it). I put up both routes in 1998." A Seperate Peace" is a bit harder but the climbing is similar. Both were led from the ground up with stoppers, tricams, and small cams. Jun 13, 2016

More About Gone With the Wind

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