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Routes in Scout Lake

A-Climb-A-Tize T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blues Streak S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ed's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gone With the Wind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Eggs and Ham T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillotine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hero Maker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Huck's Fin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lustography S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Novacain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shinangwav T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ed Fallis, Nathan Smith, 1998
Page Views: 42 total, 1/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Oct 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous. Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Ed's Route climbs a hard to protect, open book dihedral using various sized edges and fancy footwork. Follow the obvious seam up and left about 40 feet until you intersect the upper crack of Novacaine. Careful face climbing along with the crux mark the first 25 feet, holds and protection increase as the route does. Finish on a ledge and build an anchor. Walk off.

To sum it up: quality rock, difficult and tricky protection, fun.

Location

Directly right of the obvious crack/roof route Novacaine; set in the center of the Scout Lake Buttress.

Protection

Cams and stoppers, brass type or micro nuts, a few long slings and some draws. Expect marginal protection. Build your own anchor.

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