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Routes in Little Scraggy Dome

Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad
FA: ? '74 ish?
Page Views: 146 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Jul 28, 2011 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is to the left of Let Me Cry.

We saw bolts and figured WTH. We thought it might be just another "modern" bolt line. I soon realized this was old school. The runout between bolts was the first clue. The exfoliating crux runout to the 2nd bolt was a dead giveaway that this was drilled on lead a long time ago. The excitement builds as you see that the 3rd bolt is an ancient piece of garbage. Finally, you grab the flake and can place a much needed piece of gear. Now you are safe, but it doesn't really matter, since the climbing is easy up to the anchor. They are not the greatest looking anchor bolts, but at least there are 3 and they held our weight....

We did not continue, but I believe the 2nd pitch heads up the crack above that arches right. At the end of this crack, you can step over left below the big overlap. Follow the path of least resistance up the obvious slab that breaches the overlap (5.9- no gear?). Head up a wide, dirty crack. It looks like you can reach the anchor atop P2 of Two Jews Blues to get down.

Hardly anybody does the regular runout 2nd pitch up left through the overlap to join Bachelor Party, or even the more likely variation suggested above which joins Let Me Cry up at the big (frequently wet) roofs.

Location

A little ways left of Two Jews Blues, look for some bolts leading up a slab to a left-facing flake.

Protection

First pitch: 3 bolts and a couple small pieces (small nut, a C4 green or smaller).
Rick Casey
Lafayette, Colorado
Rick Casey   Lafayette, Colorado
I took a fall on this route on July 14, 2015, about 6 feet past the first bolt, which, although not that big, I was very glad I was wearing my new Petzl helmet, as I cracked my head pretty good.

I would definitely give this route an R+ rating, as you are in danger of a groundfall by the time you reach the second bolt (which I didn't feel like doing after my fall).

I would also question the 5.8 rating; where I fell, the rock was steep, and the merest of holds were exfoliating flacks with the thickness of something between a corn chip and a corn flake, and I'm used to 5.8 slab routes having a few more positive holds.

The other pictures of the poor bolt quality call out for bolt replacement and perhaps another bolt at the crux where I peeled...IMHO. Jul 15, 2015
Princess Mia   Vail
Yeah, I think pitch one of Let Me Cry is the crack immediately to the left of Two Jews. It looks like an awesome line, but it is full of bushes. If cleaned, it would surely increase in popularity.
The unnamed 5.8 is pretty fun but is very spicy between bolts one and two. The anchor is fine. We replaced the webbing and left a biner. Jun 24, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
This is an unknown 5.8 in the new Haas guidebook. "Let Me Cry" goes up a crack to the right with no bolts on the first pitch. May 16, 2012
Alex Andrews  
 
Glad I did not do this climb, that day you and Cindy did it, (nice lead). This one looked like it would easy slab climbing, not! but runout. Aug 10, 2011
Nice lead, Mark. Seems like every hold crumbled in my hands. The runout between bolt 1 and 2 is scary. Don't fall here. Jul 29, 2011