Avg: 1.7 from 6 votes
Routes in Little Scraggy Dome
|Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|FA:||? '74 ish?|
|Page Views:||146 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on Jul 28, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is to the left of Let Me Cry.
We saw bolts and figured WTH. We thought it might be just another "modern" bolt line. I soon realized this was old school. The runout between bolts was the first clue. The exfoliating crux runout to the 2nd bolt was a dead giveaway that this was drilled on lead a long time ago. The excitement builds as you see that the 3rd bolt is an ancient piece of garbage. Finally, you grab the flake and can place a much needed piece of gear. Now you are safe, but it doesn't really matter, since the climbing is easy up to the anchor. They are not the greatest looking anchor bolts, but at least there are 3 and they held our weight....
We did not continue, but I believe the 2nd pitch heads up the crack above that arches right. At the end of this crack, you can step over left below the big overlap. Follow the path of least resistance up the obvious slab that breaches the overlap (5.9- no gear?). Head up a wide, dirty crack. It looks like you can reach the anchor atop P2 of Two Jews Blues to get down.
Hardly anybody does the regular runout 2nd pitch up left through the overlap to join Bachelor Party, or even the more likely variation suggested above which joins Let Me Cry up at the big (frequently wet) roofs.