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Routes in Little Scraggy Dome

Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 258 total · 2/month
Shared By: James on Apr 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Step up past the tree into a moss/dirt filled crack. Pass two more trees, then up a short runout up an easy slab to a larger tree. From here, climb a wide crack to a slopey ledge to belay (70 feet, 5.6).

Pitch two is cleaner, more interesting and a little harder. Climb straight up the crack from the belay ledge (wide gear is welcome here). When you come out of the offwidth, you have some choices. I used a dirty crack to the left with a prickly bush. Karen took a more pleasant line between two cracks. Anyway pick a line, from here to the top is easier (65 feet 5.7).

As of this writing, there are slings (added cord) with links/biner around a tree just left of your top out.

It is a dirty route in places with vegetation, but it is in a nice setting, therefore one star.

Location

This route starts on the far left side of the dome. You will see two cracks on the left side. They both have trees at the start. This route is the left of these cracks.

I believe there is some kind of walk-off, but we did not explore that option. Instead, we rapped back down slightly left of the route. When you pass the end of a gully on your left, drop over the left side. We had a 70 meter rope with about 15-20 feet of extra rope on the ground. From here, scramble/hike a short distance downhill to the start.

Protection

Standard rack, heavy on the big stuff. I took 2- #5 cams (1-BD & 1-Friend) and # 2 & 3 BigBros.

Photos

slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
There was a golfball (?!?) buried in the mud near the 2nd tree. We opted for climbing/scrambling higher to walk off, rather than rap down the cat's claw infested gully. In hindsight, we would have chosen the rap instead. Apr 23, 2012

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