Type: Sport, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,622 total · 51/month
Shared By: Jeff Buhl on May 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


68 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is towards the climbers left of the rock formation and to the right of the climbs "5.10+" and "Let Me Cry". I stumbled on to this climb a couple years ago and still can not get it out of my mind. Look for a never ending line of shiny bolts that lead up to and through a headwall feature about halfway up.

The climb consists of three pitches of very well-protected, slab climbing on beautiful granite. No route finding required.

P1: Step up and clip the first bolts and make a delicate move to gain the slab (5.10a). Continue up for a full 165 feet+ of 5.8-5.9 to a two bolt anchor. (I have only done this climb with a 200' rope, and it seems like it would be a rope stretcher for a 165' rope). 18 bolts.

P2: Continue up past a couple bolts to the imposing headwall and deciper the move over it. Continue following the bolts up more beautiful slab to gain the anchors (two bolts on a small ledge) (150' at 5.9-). 13 bolts.

P3: Step out to the right (arete)and climb up slightly more exposed slab. The final [four] bolts climb a pretty blank slab (5.10); however, there is a crack two feet to the right that eases the passage at 5.9 (I am unsure if this is the intent of the 1st ascensionist, but it is the line of weakness - the bolts are very easy to clip from the crack) (75' at 5.9). 10 bolts.

Descent: Rappel the route (double ropes).

Protection

The gear for this route is 18 quick draws (a few longer ones) and some shoulder length slings with biners for the anchors. The bolts are all 3/8" expansion bolts with double bolt anchors.

Photos