Two Jews Blues
Avg: 3.4 from 54 votes
Routes in Little Scraggy Dome
|Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Sport, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||8,816 total, 50/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Buhl on May 15, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is towards the climbers left of the rock formation and to the right of the climbs "5.10+" and "Let Me Cry". I stumbled on to this climb a couple years ago and still can not get it out of my mind. Look for a never ending line of shiny bolts that lead up to and through a headwall feature about halfway up.
The climb consists of three pitches of very well-protected, slab climbing on beautiful granite. No route finding required.
P1: Step up and clip the first bolts and make a delicate move to gain the slab (5.10a). Continue up for a full 165 feet+ of 5.8-5.9 to a two bolt anchor. (I have only done this climb with a 200' rope, and it seems like it would be a rope stretcher for a 165' rope). 18 bolts.
P2: Continue up past a couple bolts to the imposing headwall and deciper the move over it. Continue following the bolts up more beautiful slab to gain the anchors (two bolts on a small ledge) (150' at 5.9-). 13 bolts.
P3: Step out to the right (arete)and climb up slightly more exposed slab. The final [four] bolts climb a pretty blank slab (5.10); however, there is a crack two feet to the right that eases the passage at 5.9 (I am unsure if this is the intent of the 1st ascensionist, but it is the line of weakness - the bolts are very easy to clip from the crack) (75' at 5.9). 10 bolts.
Descent: Rappel the route (double ropes).