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Routes in Little Scraggy Dome

Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ken Trout, Tom Vanco, & Allen Jolly, ~1983
Page Views: 1,404 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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The technical crux is the second pitch thin crack...several run out sections on the third pitch will keep you thinking.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ Climb up the crack just left of Two Jew Blues for about 35 feet to a dish and a new bolt near a old buttonhead. Clip the bolts and head up and right past two old bolts to a thin flake. Climb the flake to a 3-bolt anchor with new perlon (thanks to Jack Roberts).

Pitch 2: 5.10+ step a little right from the belay and climb into a short corner below a roof. Climb out the roof and then up the thin crack (5.10+) (RPs) to a bolt and then up a flake to a ledge...head left to the anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ R Follow the well-spaced bolts up the water groove to a rap anchor on the right 25 feet past the last bolt.

Rap the route in two rappel with double ropes.


The route starts just left of Two Jew Blues.


Gear up to a two Camalot.


Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
FIRST ASCENT: Tom Vanco and Allen Jolly helped me with this, about 1983. There were no other routes on the dome then, and we didn't name it because I was being secretive about such an easy to approach but hard to find crag. Craggy Tur was what Hubbel called it. Oct 10, 2007
The description of the first pitch sounds more like the first pitch to 'Let Me Cry'. I had thought that the first pitch of 'Craggy Tur' started up the right-leaning dihedral (behind the tree). This is more consistent with Hubbel's topo, but Ivan's entry for 'Miss Manners' looks like the line that I had thought was the first pitch of Craggy Tur. Apr 23, 2012
Golden, CO
Josh   Golden, CO
I led P1 only then rapped. It was a good extra something after Two Jews Blues when we still had a bit of time. A few notes on P1 (at least as it is described here, since that's the line we climbed): the final crack before the anchor is easier but thin-- bring small wires. The 3-bolt anchor has one 3/8" old bolt, one 1/4" bolt, and one buttonhead with a sharp old bed frame-style hanger. All together, they seem to add up to an adequate if not totally confidence inspiring anchor. Bring some tat to add to the growing pile. Apr 15, 2017
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
If just doing pitch one, you can lower the leader and set up a toprope from the ground with a 70m rope. May 7, 2017

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