Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Scraggy Dome

Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Page Views: 10,279 total · 58/month
Shared By: Jeff Buhl on May 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Little Scraggy Dome is another place for some great Platte slab climbing. The scenery is outstanding, it is quiet, and it feels remote. It is West facing making it ideal for mornings on hot summer days or afternoons in the Spring, Fall and Winter. The difficulty currently ranges from 5.7 to 5.11 and is home to perhaps one of the best 5.10a slab routes in the Platte area. Over the past few years there has been new route activity and some excellent well protected slab routes have been put up. I am not sure who is behind the new route activity but whomever it is should be commended for excellent work.

Getting There

From US 285, take CR 126 South and go 4.3 miles past Buffalo Creek to Forest Service Road #550. Go right on FS 550 and follow the road for 2.2 miles to a little pullout on the left hand side of the road. Follow an access trail (an old 4x4 road) through a field and then along a very small stream until it connects with the Colorado Trail. Take a left on the Colorado Trail and in about 250-400 yards you will be standing below Little Scraggy Dome. Another few minutes of scrambling are required to reach the base.

Parking

Per Jonathan Stickel: we learned from a cop that parking is not allowed anywhere along the forest road, except where marked (signs with a 'P'). This includes the wide shoulders near the approach road and definitely not in front of the gate.

10 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Little Scraggy Dome Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Little Scraggy Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Jews Blues
Sport 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Craggy Tur
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Miss Manners
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Two Jews Blues 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 3 pitches
Craggy Tur 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Miss Manners 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Little Scraggy Dome »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
We learned from a cop that parking is not allowed anywhere along the forest road, except where marked (signs with a 'P'). This includes the wide shoulders near the approach road and definitely not in front of the gate. We parked at the bottom of the S curve at a campsite that has an ample, flat, grassy area for parking. We just asked the campers politely if they were OK with us parking there for the day (they were). It looks like you could also park at a designated spot just up the road as well. May 7, 2017
@ssp: The bolts are not as close as you think. There are a lot of bolts on Two Jews, but it still isn't a sport route and it is not overbolted. You have to get on it to really get a feel for it. May 27, 2012
ssp
ssp  
Took a little recon to Lil' Scraggy today and It is quick to get to , with a few real nice campsites on the way and at the base.
BUT on a couple of routes I saw 4 bolts in 10 feet !?
I hope this is not a trend in this area ! Jun 7, 2011
"H" Lampasso
Manitou Springs
"H" Lampasso   Manitou Springs
HOLY CALF BURNER!!!! This is one slab fest, calf killer. Forced me to remember why I don't do slabs so much! LOLOLOL!!! Otherwise it was a fun outing. Nov 8, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
This is the best roadside rock in the Platte. Not really roadside, close to it. The granite is bullet. Oct 1, 2009
In 2000, added rap anchor with Jim Hausmann to top of second pitch (can be done in one pitch) of Shear Class .11c. Great route! May 29, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The approach instructions above are very good. Here are a few more details: We missed the parking pullout the first time. I believe it was exactly at 2.2 miles as stated above, but it looked just like the many (very nice) camp sites that preceded it. The pullout is on the outside of a right-hand downhill bend. Look sharply back and left, and you will see a gate across the access road.

The approach is delightful, especially at this time of year with all the flowers. The 4x4 road is very obvious as it crosses the meadow and continues through the woods, very gently uphill. The Colorado Trail is also very obvious, and seems to be very popular with mountain bikers.

Almost immediately after turning left on the Colorado Trail you will see a small meadow on the right below the crag. Beyond the meadow are huge boulders. We did not see a climbers trail to the base of the crag, but it is easy to bypass the boulders by aiming for the far left of the meadow, angling left and up along a pine needle path between some boulders, back right across a slab, then up and left again on easy ground. This brings you right to the base of Two Jews Blues near the left side of the crag.

The approach takes 15 to 20 minutes. Aug 1, 2004

More About Little Scraggy Dome

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Little Scraggy Dome (46)

Most Popular · Newest