Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Scraggy Dome

Craggy Tur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into The Groove T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ken Trout's Route T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midlife Crisis Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Manners S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Past Tense T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Thoughts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shear Class T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Jews Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 178 total, 1/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Mar 19, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is up and around to the right from 5.10 face, and Sheer Class on Little Scraggy Dome. Look for the second wide crack in the right part of the wall in sort of a left-facing corner that doesn't quite touch down. Either scramble over a couple blocky roofs, or traverse from the left on an exposed slab. Work up the wide crack for a ways, traverse around a block, and to the anchors. The crack is mostly #4.5 Camalot size, and squeezes down to #4 Camalot size every so often.

Protection

A couple of hand-sized pieces and a couple of large cams. I used a #4, and a #4.5 Camalot, and had to walk them a couple times. Two of each of those, or just two #4.5s that size would be nice. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8+
I brought 2 #5 Camalots on this, and I wish I had brought 3. I know you have to go above gear on a climb at some point, but I kept moving the cams up as I climbed. If you are a solid off width climber, you would not care, but 3 would have made me feel better. Apr 8, 2014