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Routes in Triple Corners Center

Big Worm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Central Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Full Effect, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Full Throttle S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jammit Damnit T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Flakes T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Logjam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Buttress Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reasons to be Cheerful T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reasons to be Fearful TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sergeant Schultz S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skunks in the Gym S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Management T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trundle Love S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twit T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Blue Yonder S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 516 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Great climbing! In Conway it would get lots of love. Understandably it sees little action at Rumney since it isn't very sporty. It wasn't too dirty when I was on it but there was a little loose rock and dirt up top that my rope was threatening to knock down. I moved my anchor and crisis was averted.

Climb the wide crack right off the ledge manteling to the right and up to a nice stance. Find your way in to the corner awkwardly in a wide hand jam mixed with some perfect hands. It's a bit of a grovel but in a nice Yosemite way not a bad way. It eases up on the second half but you are still climbing 5.8 all the way to the top.

Location

As the name implies this is the middle corner of the "triple corners". Look for the wide crack start and a nice tight corner above with a hand crack.

Protection

Regular rack, the guide book says to bring a wide cam but if you look close you can find other options.
Build an anchor or head up to a tree anchor a ways back (bring a sling to add, the anchor is looking a little ratty)

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9+
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.9+
Climbed this yesterday and cleaned most of the loose rocks that were threatening to fall at the end of the route. There is still some leafs, debris and small pieces of rock but everything is safe enough to be climbed. There is still a large rock that is jammed in the corner that you want to be careful with. Make sure your rope doesn't get caught and dislodge that chunk of rock that holds more loose stuff. I really enjoyed it!!! Sep 7, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.9+
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.9+
Today an accident was narrowly avoided on the ledge below the three corners.
My partner climbed Logjam. He went to a tree on the right to set an anchor and I lowered him in the Central Corner groove because it's more in line with the descent. As soon as he got to the ledge, big blocks started coming down (0.5 - 1 cubic foot blocks). When the rocks stopped coming down, my partner put me on belay on the side of the rope that came down the Central Corner. I when up with my grigri on the other end of the rope and climbed Logjam cleaning the gear. Once at the top, I rappelled to the Reasons to be Cheerful anchor and rapped to the ledge.
DON'T CLIMB CENTRAL CORNER UNTIL SOMEONE GOES FROM THE TOP AND MAKE SURE NOTHING ELSE IS ABOUT TO FALL.... Jun 29, 2014