Type: Trad
FA: Bob Pike 1978
Page Views: 422 total · 5/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Not a bad climb but ill admit it's a bit dirty. with a good anchor at the top (or an anchor at all) and a little traffic to clean it up it could be quite nice. But until then it will await the adventurous few that seek out these seldom climbed lines that lack the shiny bolts.

from the ledge below the wide steep crack (which is start for the harder corners) move left around a small tree and climb easily back right below the corner. Stem and jam up the corner or maybe chimney a few moves to the top.

Good pro, good fun but dirty and often wet :(

Location

The left most of the "triple corners". From the ledge at the top of the ramp move around to the left and back below the corners. Stay to the left in the widest corner.

Protection

3 rusty pins and a regular rack.
No real anchor to speak of unfortunately. you could continue to a tree or build an anchor. There is at least one tree anchor off to the right but the slings were looking a little old.

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.8
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.8
If you climb this one, don't rappel down in the Central Corner. This corner is very unstable. Big blocks of rock (0,5 - 1 cubic foot blocks) got detached yesterday and went down the cliff.
The climb itself is nice but an anchor should be installed. A little cleanup would also help. Jun 30, 2014