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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 792 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike Roghaar on May 18, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully. Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section fallowed by one more bolt and a small roof. Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor. Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor. Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot. Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.


Climbs the center of rhe southeast face. The dog leg on the second pitch can be seen from the approach.


Quickdraws, a single rack to 2 inches and a set of nuts.


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The initial slab was gritty, but the rest was quite clean. I really liked this route. I don't recall it being run out at all. May 18, 2013
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
hmmm, guess I missed the 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom. We climbed the chimney/crack which was pretty fun on sub-par rock (2 & 3 cam was nice). Combined pitch 3&4. Rapped with single 60m. Sep 16, 2013
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
Any two pitches can be combined. Done in two long pitches. Oct 14, 2015

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