Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 806 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike Roghaar on May 18, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully. Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section fallowed by one more bolt and a small roof. Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor. Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor. Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot. Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.

Location

Climbs the center of rhe southeast face. The dog leg on the second pitch can be seen from the approach.

Protection

Quickdraws, a single rack to 2 inches and a set of nuts.

Photos

- No Photos -
zoso
  5.10a
zoso  
  5.10a
The initial slab was gritty, but the rest was quite clean. I really liked this route. I don't recall it being run out at all. May 18, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
hmmm, guess I missed the 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom. We climbed the chimney/crack which was pretty fun on sub-par rock (2 & 3 cam was nice). Combined pitch 3&4. Rapped with single 60m. Sep 16, 2013
Ball
Oakridge, OR
5.10a
Ball   Oakridge, OR
5.10a
Any two pitches can be combined. Done in two long pitches. Oct 14, 2015