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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face
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10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deadwood T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Extreme X-Poseur S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Moral Kiosk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sampler Platter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slow Children Playing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Smorgasbord T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 42.12418, -113.6714 |
| FA: | Hannah North 2004 |
| Page Views: | 2,068 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Roghaar on May 18, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully. Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section followed by one more bolt and a small roof. Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor. Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor. Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot. Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.
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