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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 734 total, 9/month
Shared By: Mike Roghaar on May 18, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This is a fun 4 pitch climb up the center of the Southeast face that seems to see little to no traffic. Start on a gritty slab left of a gully. Climb the slab past 2 bolts to a short crack section fallowed by one more bolt and a small roof. Pull over the roof using gear for pro to a chain anchor. Pitch two climbs a somewhat dirty (should clean up nicely after a few more ascents) dog leg crack using gear and 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the bolt protected steep face to a chain anchor. Pitch 4 climbs past a few bolts on huge holds to the top and eases up a lot. Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes.

Location

Climbs the center of rhe southeast face. The dog leg on the second pitch can be seen from the approach.

Protection

Quickdraws, a single rack to 2 inches and a set of nuts.

Photos

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Ball
Oakridge, OR
5.10a
Ball   Oakridge, OR
5.10a
Any two pitches can be combined. Done in two long pitches. Oct 14, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
hmmm, guess I missed the 2 bolts on the slab at the bottom. We climbed the chimney/crack which was pretty fun on sub-par rock (2 & 3 cam was nice). Combined pitch 3&4. Rapped with single 60m. Sep 16, 2013
zoso
  5.10a
zoso  
  5.10a
The initial slab was gritty, but the rest was quite clean. I really liked this route. I don't recall it being run out at all. May 18, 2013