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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: David and Dee Tvedt, August 2004
Page Views: 966 total · 7/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


This somewhat uninspiring looking line has continuously challenging and interesting moves. The crux for most people is likely to be the final bulge move before the anchors. A small roof/bulge move 1/3rd up may be the crux for others. The rock is a little gritty at the start of the route but is good the rest of the way. Deadwood had a large variety of fun moves. The climbing reminds me somewhat of some of the routes at Lover's Leap (CA).


Deadwood is about 50' down from Crimson Arete. The route starts in an inset bordered by 2 seams/cracks with a small roof above. Its on the north side of the East Face notch and gets late afternoon shade.


Gear to 3 1/2". Optional O.W. cams (up to largest B.D. or W.C.) can be helpful but aren't necessary to safely protect the route(there are no O.W. moves on it). This route requires a mild amount of creative gear placement and probably isn't a good beginner lead. Rap anchors at the top.


I agree with the following statement in the "Protection" section of the posted description: "This route requires a mild amount of creative gear placement and probably isn't a good beginner lead." If I remember correctly, there was a ~10-12ft section just before the anchors with no pro and some scaly rock. Given the gradings of other routes in the area, and my agreement that the crux (psychological, at least) is at the top, I would consider adding an "R" to the grade. It would not be a pretty ~25ft fall into that slot.

With that said, it was an interesting route. Approaching the top I actually traversed right, then up and back left to the anchors (yes, putting myself in a position for a much dangerous fall!). Along with pro, there did not appear to be much in the way of solid holds straight up to the anchors.

My first time to a great area. Thanks to all who are responsible for the seemingly solid bolts and anchors! Sep 29, 2008

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