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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face
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10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Castles Made of Sand S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Feet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Extreme X-Poseur S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Moral Kiosk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sampler Platter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slow Children Playing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Engle and Chris Barnes |
| Page Views: | 1,217 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Sep 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
From the anchors of Castles Made of Sand, move right and follow the bolt line straight up the long slab to a final headwall with a stout move. An excellent link up is to climb Crimson Arete (5.10a) and pull over the lip to the stance above the anchors then continue up to Castles Made of Sand anchors clipping a bolt along the way. It's possible to link Crimson Arete and 10b or Not 10b into a single long pitch.
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