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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

10b or Not 10b S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castles Made of Sand S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crimson Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deadwood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Down and Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hospitaliano T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Hard To Be A Saint In The City S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smiley Face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sudan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Anderson
Page Views: 743 total, 5/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Aug 2, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


Route starts out on a prominent layback edge. Thin moves above the third bolt, then super thin moves above the fourth at a thin horizontal to easier climbing above.

Brian (below) said he thinks it was put up by Chris Harmston?


Two bolt lines left of Crimson Arete, where a 6" layback fin sticks out for about thirty feet up the wall.


Bolts, chains.


- No Photos -
Ok then. The names were switched and "Cold Feet" is the left-most route. What is now confusing is that the second bolted route from the left was given 11c in the FA report, not 12b. Jan 30, 2016
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
Hi Dave,
I think what Mike A. is saying is that the route "It's Hard.." in your guidebook is actually Cold Feet (12C) and that of the "tad squeezed" 3 routes, the leftmost is "It's Hard ..." and that route is 12b. I believed the Mountain Project entry is now correct. Is that your understanding? Dec 24, 2015
Hi Mike, I hope you stumble upon this...

The original info I got from Brad had "Saint" at 12c and "Cold Feet" at 11c. You mention "Cold Feet" above as 12c...

I guess I'd better get on it to find out! Mar 15, 2015
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
I think the photo is of a route I called "It's hard to be a saint in the City". It's named after a Springsteen song, and it's a sly acknowledgment that those three routes (Crimson Arete, Castles Made of sand, and this one) are a tad squeezed. I think I called it 12b.

If I remember correctly, Cold Feet is on the adjacent wall, about 30' to the left of these three...that's the 12c.

Dave never asked be for any information on any of my routes, so I wouldn't be surprised if he made some mistakes. Aug 15, 2006