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Routes in Schultz's Ridge

Are You Hard Enough? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bikini Beach Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Burden of Dreams T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Caught at the Lip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crystalline Passage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demon's Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dreams of Thailand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gidget Goes to Yosemite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hooter Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Do Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moratorium, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Suede Shoes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Proud Snapper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psycho Bitch T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Second Thoughts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Warm Up Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dan and Sue McDevitt, Jerry, Sigrid, and Lynnea Anderson
Page Views: 822 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 8, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Start at the same spot as Are You Hard Enough?. Lieback up the left slanting crack to reach a high first bolt (optional gear, fingers or hands I think??) Move right and up the face to get positioned under the roof. Make some cool moves pulling the roof and then fight the pump as you climb to the anchors.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor rap
1-2" gear optional.

Photos

- No Photos -
Michael Dom  
 
This one is a balancing act. Dec 12, 2016
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
Had fun on this one yesterday. The layback on the left up the ramp protects well. Put a green BD cam (.75) in at the start, a purple (.5) a few feet above the piton, and a #4 near the light colored section in the rock.

I used the #4 just above the piton to protect it, then back cleaned to use it again, though it was probably unnecessary.

Get a good rest before the roof, then power through the the third bolt above it, rest, finish.

May 5, 2014
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10d
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10d
I placed a #4 bd and a .75 before getting to the first bolt and was glad to have them. I clipped the rusty pin, but really had no faith in it; it looks pretty rotten. I was able to no hands rest as much as I wanted before the crux, but misread the moves. From the roof to the chains is demanding and exciting. Fun route. Apr 21, 2014
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Not sure if we did the same start, but I did the variation that starts to the right, and then traverses left to gain the roof.

Probably not quite 30 feet up at the first bolt that, but you would still wreck yourself if you fell. It's a ~5.9 undercling move to get where you can clip the bolt.

Looked like the only place to get gear in was for the left start variation.

Hard to clean if you do this variation, but the anchor is mussies so you can lower and clean.. Long swing at the end!
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That said. Great climb! You turn the roof in an unusual way!

There is an X'd loose block under the roof. I tried to trundle it, but it wouldn't go. Mar 25, 2014
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
The first bolt is almost 30 feet up and it's 5.10 climbing to get there. A single rack from fingers to hands would be recommended. You can even get in a #4 camalot at the first roof, instead of using the old rusty piton. Apr 29, 2013