Avg: 3.6 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Barry & Hitchcock - 1978|
|Page Views:||4,188 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Demon's Delight is a fantastic outing that doesn't appear to receive much attention, but certainly deserves it. If you're looking for four pitches of sustained and interesting climbing, and trying to avoid crowds, go for it.
The climb takes a traversing line up a large left facing corner/roof system on Shultz's Ridge. Scramble up some 4th/low 5th class ground to a perch in a tree.
P1: Ascend the steep left-facing corner via a hand crack, then jam and undercling out a roof and up to a stance for a belay. 5.10.
P2: Bust left out the roof on positive jams and small feet and perform a very powerful lieback move to get around the corner. Continue up to an ill-defined site for a hanging belay. 5.11a.
P3: Continue a short ways up the corner, then begin a long leftwards traverse. Pass a quartzite band with difficult pro but good holds, rest, and then continue out the roof on very thin underclings and feet. Save small cams for this stretch, and marshall your gear in general on this long pitch. Belay just around the corner at bolts. 5.11a.
P4: Head up the thin corner with tricky gear to an obvious mantle crux (hint: there is a very inobvious way to solve this that utilizes an undercling if you, like me, can't make the mantle work). Continue up a thin flake via jams and stems to a bolted belay. This last stretch has pretty poor pro and some questionable rock. 5.11a.
Descent: One nice feature of this route is that you only need to carry one rope on the climb. Rappel from the 4th pitch anchor to the 3rd pitch anchor. From the 3rd pitch anchor a 70 will just reach the ground, mind the end of your rope. Also, check the cord on the last rap.