Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Barry & Hitchcock - 1978
Page Views: 3,427 total · 22/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Demon's Delight is a fantastic outing that doesn't appear to receive much attention, but certainly deserves it. If you're looking for four pitches of sustained and interesting climbing, and trying to avoid crowds, go for it.

The climb takes a traversing line up a large left facing corner/roof system on Shultz's Ridge. Scramble up some 4th/low 5th class ground to a perch in a tree.

P1: Ascend the steep left-facing corner via a hand crack, then jam and undercling out a roof and up to a stance for a belay. 5.10.

P2: Bust left out the roof on positive jams and small feet and perform a very powerful lieback move to get around the corner. Continue up to an ill-defined site for a hanging belay. 5.11a.

P3: Continue a short ways up the corner, then begin a long leftwards traverse. Pass a quartzite band with difficult pro but good holds, rest, and then continue out the roof on very thin underclings and feet. Save small cams for this stretch, and marshall your gear in general on this long pitch. Belay just around the corner at bolts. 5.11a.

P4: Head up the thin corner with tricky gear to an obvious mantle crux (hint: there is a very inobvious way to solve this that utilizes an undercling if you, like me, can't make the mantle work). Continue up a thin flake via jams and stems to a bolted belay. This last stretch has pretty poor pro and some questionable rock. 5.11a.

Descent: One nice feature of this route is that you only need to carry one rope on the climb: Leave your second rope at the base and have one person single-line rap to the ground from the top anchor. This person can then tie the ropes together and the last person down can pull the rope up and do one 60m rap to the ground.

Protection

Two each from TCU's to hands, one each 3 and 4 inch pieces. Small wires.

Photos