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Routes in Schultz's Ridge

Are You Hard Enough? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bikini Beach Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Burden of Dreams T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Caught at the Lip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crystalline Passage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demon's Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dreams of Thailand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gidget Goes to Yosemite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hooter Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Do Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moratorium, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Suede Shoes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Proud Snapper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psycho Bitch T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Second Thoughts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Warm Up Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tom Davis and David Rubine
Page Views: 2,182 total, 24/month
Shared By: Keith Forest on May 23, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

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Keith Forest  
Just got your question J. Albers. Both routes have Metolius Bolt hangers. They also have 3/8 inch, with what look like, expansion bolts - wedge anchor type because they have nuts. I felt very safe with the anchoring. Well thought out belay locations too. Jul 9, 2011
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
Thanks for posting this Keith. I was looking at this and 'Golden Years' in my Reid guide and was thinking about giving them a go. I do have a question though. What generation are the bolts on this thing? I believe 'Burden' went up in 1990 which means it could have reasonable or sorta sketchy hardware (i.e. is it old school SMC stuff or...)
Any info you have would be welcome.

EDIT: Thanks for the reply Keith!! Feb 23, 2011
Keith Forest  
Rob-If you like steep slab it does not get any better. I have been on it and found every pitch unique, hard on fantastic granite. I believe the topo is in the last Yosemite guide.

I did find a few sections to be a little stretched out- right at my comfort zone. But nowhere did it seem unsafe to me.

There is a pin protecting the 10c crux on the 1st pitch that had me a little worried but it did look sound. I wish a bolt had been placed there instead. May 25, 2010
Wow, I was just looking over at this beauty a couple days ago. Polished golden granite...bolts don't look horribly far anything more to add on this one? May 23, 2010
Keith Forest  
Often overlooked 5 pitch, mixed face and crack route (mostly continuous steep slab climbing on the face just right of the Moratorium). Beautiful Climb! May 23, 2010