Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Livesey & Jones - 1975
Page Views: 16,952 total · 100/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Moratorium is three (sometimes four) pitches of technical and powerful stemming and jamming up a steep, right-facing corner system at the base of El Cap. It serves as a great approach to the classic "East Buttress" as they finish and start within a few meters of one another, but because the climbing is of such a different nature (that is, East Buttress being much easier, wandering, and adventurous), the Moratorium is perhaps better as a stand-alone climb.

The corner is easily identified on Shultz's Ridge. Approach via a short third class scramble in from the right.

P1: Climb up the steep, pumpy 5.10 corner via jams and quite a bit of laybacking. The top gets thin but just when things get desparate, one can step left to a great belay ledge. Belay at bolts. 5.10d.

P2: Step back into the corner (airy), and continue up on fun climbing until an ultra-thin, creative stemming affair at the top. 10d.

P3: Climb up some hollow flakes to a stance a little ways out from the belay. The crux involves steep liebacking and stemming up a seasonally wet crack. Kinda tough 5.11b. Link this pitch into the next one if you're continuing up to the East Buttress, or rap from here with two ropes.

P4: A short 5.9 pitch up flakes and blocks to the top.

Protection

Double set of cams with a strong emphasis on small gear (RPs not needed, but bring plenty of TCUs/tiny Aliens). Two ropes if you wish to rap.

Photos