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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 1. Schultz's Ridge
The Moratorium
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 198
votes
Routes in 1. Schultz's Ridge
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Are You Hard Enough? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bikini Beach Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Burden of Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Caught at the Lip S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crystalline Passage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Demon's Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dreams of Thailand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gidget Goes to Yosemite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hooter Alert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Do Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mark of the Beast T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Moratorium, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Suede Shoes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Proud Snapper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Thoughts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Superstem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Warm Up Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Livesey & Jones - 1975 |
| Page Views: | 21,770 total · 102/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Moratorium is three (sometimes four) pitches of technical and powerful stemming and jamming up a steep, right-facing corner system at the base of El Cap. It serves as a great approach to the classic "East Buttress" as they finish and start within a few meters of one another, but because the climbing is of such a different nature (that is, East Buttress being much easier, wandering, and adventurous), the Moratorium is perhaps better as a stand-alone climb.
The corner is easily identified on Shultz's Ridge. Approach via a short third class scramble in from the right.
P1: Climb up the steep, pumpy 5.10 corner via jams and quite a bit of laybacking. The top gets thin but just when things get desparate, one can step left to a great belay ledge. Belay at bolts. 5.10d.
P2: Step back into the corner (airy), and continue up on fun climbing until an ultra-thin, creative stemming affair at the top. 10d.
P3: Climb up some hollow flakes to a stance a little ways out from the belay. The crux involves steep liebacking and stemming up a seasonally wet crack. Kinda tough 5.11b. Link this pitch into the next one if you're continuing up to the East Buttress, or rap from here with two ropes.
P4: A short 5.9 pitch up flakes and blocks to the top.
The corner is easily identified on Shultz's Ridge. Approach via a short third class scramble in from the right.
P1: Climb up the steep, pumpy 5.10 corner via jams and quite a bit of laybacking. The top gets thin but just when things get desparate, one can step left to a great belay ledge. Belay at bolts. 5.10d.
P2: Step back into the corner (airy), and continue up on fun climbing until an ultra-thin, creative stemming affair at the top. 10d.
P3: Climb up some hollow flakes to a stance a little ways out from the belay. The crux involves steep liebacking and stemming up a seasonally wet crack. Kinda tough 5.11b. Link this pitch into the next one if you're continuing up to the East Buttress, or rap from here with two ropes.
P4: A short 5.9 pitch up flakes and blocks to the top.
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