Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 521 total · 6/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Apr 2, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Bubbles (named after Michael Jackson's pet chimp) is currently the easiest route on Owls Left Cliff. It ascends a nice wide hand and fist crack up a slab to a tree and then heads left following overlaps. It is a great climb for a beginner or if you want to do something mellow, but maybe not for a beginning leader, as some of the crack is flaring and the last overlap is protected by opposing micronuts.

Boulder up a few moves on slopers and pockets to a flake and the start of the wide crack. A couple jams and maybe an armbar will get you up to where you can pull on to a flake to the right and a stance. Continue up the now lower angled crack which flares out as you go, so make sure you get the highest good piece, than run it out a little on some easy slab moves and sling the pine tree with a 4 foot sling. ( Straight up from the tree is an onsite variation by Kate Vorotnikov) Follow the overlap out left to the top of the arch then pull over and up to a second overlap that protects with small wires. Mantel up and head up to the narrow wooded ledge at the top. There is a bolted anchor on the back wall, which is also useful as a rap anchor for getting down from other routes that top you out to the left. Unless you have a 70 meter rope, rap down to the Pocket Change anchor, and then from there.


This is on the slab to the right of the Laughing Owl Buttress, just right of where the trail brings you up. There is a short bolted route just to the left (Pocket change) and another (Aquarium), a bolted slab, about 30 to the right.


Trad rack, including some wider cams up to #4, small nuts for the very top and plenty of slings.


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I'm betting this has gone back to completely filthy, especially the very bottom, which gets water funneled down to it. If dry and reasonably clean it was actually pretty fun for the grade though. Nov 1, 2018