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Routes in White Owl Face and Laughing Owl Area

Aquarium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Attack of the White Owl S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bubbles T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Future T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crack that Never Was, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Egg Cracker, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Owl Cliff Club, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Change S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Owl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wide Owl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wingless T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 490 total · 6/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Apr 2, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Bubbles (named after Michael Jackson's pet chimp) is currently the easiest route on Owls Left Cliff. It ascends a nice wide hand and fist crack up a slab to a tree and then heads left following overlaps. It is a great climb for a beginner or if you want to do something mellow, but maybe not for a beginning leader, as some of the crack is flaring and the last overlap is protected by opposing micronuts.

Boulder up a few moves on slopers and pockets to a flake and the start of the wide crack. A couple jams and maybe an armbar will get you up to where you can pull on to a flake to the right and a stance. Continue up the now lower angled crack which flares out as you go, so make sure you get the highest good piece, than run it out a little on some easy slab moves and sling the pine tree with a 4 foot sling. ( Straight up from the tree is an onsite variation by Kate Vorotnikov) Follow the overlap out left to the top of the arch then pull over and up to a second overlap that protects with small wires. Mantel up and head up to the narrow wooded ledge at the top. There is a bolted anchor on the back wall, which is also useful as a rap anchor for getting down from other routes that top you out to the left. Unless you have a 70 meter rope, rap down to the Pocket Change anchor, and then from there.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is on the slab to the right of the Laughing Owl Buttress, just right of where the trail brings you up. There is a short bolted route just to the left (Pocket change) and another (Aquarium), a bolted slab, about 30 to the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Trad rack, including some wider cams up to #4, small nuts for the very top and plenty of slings.

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