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Routes in Dihedrals

Bombay on the Rocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonfire of the Panties S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushfire S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chossman of the Desert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delicate Arete-ism S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Delicate Mechanism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gangsta Lean S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Friday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Proud Enough to Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O.R.G.asam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Armed Bandit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping the Slots T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slackjaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Fine Booty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Proud to Ignore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Towel Rack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wannabe Gangsta S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Geoff Fullerton and Bill Herzog (Nov '89)
Page Views: 588 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Mar 29, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

The clean arete to the left of Life During Wartime. Begin up the face and make a thin traverse over to the arete which will lead to a stance beneath a small roof/overlap. Here you will encounter the crux, a brief but powerful sequence lacking any good footholds. Above, easier climbing up the face and arete leads to the anchors.

This route shares the same anchor with Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall (the wide crack around the corner to the left), Life During Wartime (the crack up the face to the right), and One Armed Bandit (the dihedral further right).

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/lower

Photos

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Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
The usual outcome is take a wrench, loosen the bolt. The bolt spins but doesn't loosen or it won't budge. Now drive home and get the cheater pipe, crowbar, drill, patching epoxy, etc., drive back and spend the rest of the day installing a new anchor. Unfortunately it never turns out to be as easy as unscrew and rescrew. Oct 8, 2017
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a/b
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a/b
Ya, always that simple Oct 8, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
So, take a wrench, unscrew the bolts, blow out the holes, add/install a couple of Fixe rings, tighten down the bolts, and recycle the worn shuts. Oct 7, 2017
AnnaG19  
open shuts at the top need a lot of love - super worn down and spinning on their bolts. it was sketchy to come down off these Sep 18, 2017