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Routes in Dihedrals

Bombay on the Rocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonfire of the Panties S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushfire S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chossman of the Desert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delicate Arete-ism S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Delicate Mechanism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gangsta Lean S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Friday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Proud Enough to Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O.R.G.asam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Armed Bandit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping the Slots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slackjaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Fine Booty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Proud to Ignore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Towel Rack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wannabe Gangsta S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Calder & Lewis 2002
Page Views: 965 total · 7/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 1, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

2.5 stars. The sort of obscure pleaure that makes the ORG worth repeat visits.

Up an easy dihedral, passing two bolts, to a roof. Traverse L under the roof, slabby, awkward and, I thought, cruxy, and pull up onto a ledge at the base of a short, hanging face. Pull past the face which feels unaccountably exposed and gain a ramp which is followed easily to steeper and harder climbing at the end.

We were able to just barely lower the leader off with a 60 meter rope. If you try this, be very careful since the belayer may have to climb up the route for a few feet to get the leader to the ground. The route leans/traverses a fair amount and would be difficult to clean on lower, esp. w/ a 60 M rope.

Location

In a left facing corner capped by a roof after 20', just left of Too Proud To Ignore.

Protection

11 bolts

Photos

William Nicolas
Pasadena
 
William Nicolas   Pasadena
 
Niiiice, cruxy part under the roof at the beggining. It helps to use your back and push hard on the feet to lean back against the roof Feb 5, 2018
grizz Burton
  5.10b/c
grizz Burton  
  5.10b/c
I felt there were two distinct cruxes. The lower crux was definitely making my way under the roof at the beginning which I thought was harder than the upper crux. Great route. Nov 4, 2009

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