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Routes in Dihedrals

Bombay on the Rocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonfire of the Panties S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushfire S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chossman of the Desert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delicate Arete-ism S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Delicate Mechanism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gangsta Lean S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Friday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Proud Enough to Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O.R.G.asam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Armed Bandit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping the Slots T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slackjaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Fine Booty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Proud to Ignore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Towel Rack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wannabe Gangsta S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Calder & Lewis 2002
Page Views: 923 total, 7/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 1, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

2.5 stars. The sort of obscure pleaure that makes the ORG worth repeat visits.

Up an easy dihedral, passing two bolts, to a roof. Traverse L under the roof, slabby, awkward and, I thought, cruxy, and pull up onto a ledge at the base of a short, hanging face. Pull past the face which feels unaccountably exposed and gain a ramp which is followed easily to steeper and harder climbing at the end.

We were able to just barely lower the leader off with a 60 meter rope. If you try this, be very careful since the belayer may have to climb up the route for a few feet to get the leader to the ground. The route leans/traverses a fair amount and would be difficult to clean on lower, esp. w/ a 60 M rope.

Location

In a left facing corner capped by a roof after 20', just left of Too Proud To Ignore.

Protection

11 bolts

Photos

grizz Burton
  5.10b/c
grizz Burton  
  5.10b/c
I felt there were two distinct cruxes. The lower crux was definitely making my way under the roof at the beginning which I thought was harder than the upper crux. Great route. Nov 4, 2009