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Routes in Dihedrals

Bombay on the Rocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonfire of the Panties S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushfire S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chossman of the Desert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delicate Arete-ism S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Delicate Mechanism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gangsta Lean S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Friday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Proud Enough to Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O.R.G.asam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Armed Bandit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping the Slots T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slackjaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Fine Booty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Proud to Ignore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Towel Rack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wannabe Gangsta S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Kohl, Luke Miller 9/94
Page Views: 1,041 total, 8/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

My vote for best climb in the Dihedrals. A great change of pace, the wild crux of this route involves working with cracks through traverses and roofs. Used to be 11b which seemed fair. Hard to clean on lower. There is a low 5th class approach pitch.

Location

The leftmost route in the Dihedrals.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

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brucy
 
brucy  
 
Steep and fun route with big moves over blocks. One caveat however- on the lower, if self-cleaning the draws rather then someone following, the rope saws over sharp edges of the blocks (the first ascentionist neglected to round them) to the extent that I was literally waiting for the rope to part. Recommendation- have someone follow and clean or rap with tension from your belayer and clean. Apr 14, 2010