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Routes in Dihedrals

Bombay on the Rocks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bonfire of the Panties S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bushfire S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Chossman of the Desert S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Delicate Arete-ism S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Delicate Mechanism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gangsta Lean S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Friday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mildew Encrusted Shower Stall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Proud Enough to Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
O.R.G.asam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
One Armed Bandit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping the Slots T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slackjaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Fine Booty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Proud to Ignore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Towel Rack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wannabe Gangsta S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 800 total · 9/month
Shared By: Victor Lawson on Apr 14, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description [Edit]

awesome! v4/5 boulder problem to start (bring an attentive and heavy belayer!) then enter a cool, glassy, dihedral ramp feature...stem and crimp and opose and reeeeach and drop knee up this mini corner until you get a no hands rest and a choice. Let's just say that the locals do not touch "ORGasm."

originally rated .12c, now rated .13a. Most people agree with the lower grade...

would be 5 stars if not for the contrived ending.

Location [Edit]

the next route left of ORGasm

Protection [Edit]

bolts

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Vlad S
  5.12d
Vlad S  
  5.12d
This is a very height-dependent route, since there are 5-6 moves where I'm completely extended being average height. No drop knees for me - I'm on the tips of my toes all the way. I can see this feeling easier if you'r taller or harder to impossible for shorter folks. The moves are between very positive, but sometimes tiny holds, which makes the route ridiculously fun! Whether you grab the shared holds on ORGasm or not shouldn't make a difference as the hard stuff is at the bottom. Eases off after "thumbercling" pocket rest at 5th bolt. Dec 2, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
A thumbercling pocket rest...now that I've got to see. Dec 18, 2016
Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.12d
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.12d
This route is very height & ape index dependent. I am 6' tall and barely could reach a couple of the holds, then, I watched a much stronger but shorter boulderer than myself and she could not reach between holds in a couple of sections. While for me the route feels like 12d, for shorter people it may feel into the 13s - the shorter you are, the harder it will feel. May 27, 2017

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