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Routes in The Balcony

Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobzilla S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Evil S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Rich Strang, Andy Albosta, Alex Scott (Oct. 2010)
Page Views: 150 total, 2/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Mar 9, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

At least as hard and as good as Jug-or Naut - seemed a bit more continuous than the sister routes though. The route character is kind of a baby Rad Wall route- Big Holds, Big Moves and lots of them (though not as many moves as Rad Wall).

Location

Starts just right of Jug-or-Naut and angles right to the arete.

Protection

Seven bolts to anchors (chains with lowering biners)

Photos

GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.11b/c
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.11b/c
BTW, once it cleans up a bit, I think this will be the best route on the wall. May 29, 2012
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.11b/c
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.11b/c
Harder than both Jug-or-Naut and Tree Swing IMO. Perhaps no single move on Nine lives is quite as hard as the crux move on either of those two climbs, but Nine Lives is way more sustained. May 29, 2012
bking7 King
  5.11c
bking7 King  
  5.11c
Awesomely fun route. There does seem to be a number of loose pieces higher up (after 4th bolt). We didn't come across any in early march but knocked off a number of fist sized pieces yesterday. One large skull sized hold feels loose and is marked by X.

Very sweet route, belay wearing a helmet. May 31, 2011
brianLA
  5.10a/b
brianLA  
  5.10a/b
Great route, lots of fun, but equal amounts of loose rock. easier than cobble wobble May 31, 2011
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10c
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10c
Awesome route. many thanks! My buddy whipped when a cantaloupe sized cobble pulled out. Be careful as there are a couple more loose rocks. May 31, 2011
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Some people I've talked to have been enjoying this one. It could still use a little cleaning on the upper part. I only cleaned the left face thinking the route would stay there but the line ended up using some holds around the right arete. Watch out for some of these - I'll try to do some more cleaning up there one of these days.
Enjoy
RS May 31, 2011