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Routes in The Balcony

Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobzilla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Evil S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Chris Morath
Page Views: 2,239 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on May 4, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Good climbing on thin-for-El-Rito holds with a good pocket every now and then leads to a big ledge. This ledge originally had a fair amount of rodent solid-waste, thus the name. It has been cleaned up nicely though--no worries.
Two more bolts on juggier terrain take you to the anchor bolts. Crux section is going through the area around the fourth bolt.
For more information, see Vaino's website.


This is the bolted line just left of Jug-or-Naut


7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


J tot
Tempe, AZ
J tot   Tempe, AZ
The twin 11s of Jug-or-naut and Rodent Outhouse are pretty similar. If you do one, you might as well do the other. Jug-or-naut is at least a letter grade harder... fewer big jugs to shake out on. Jun 13, 2010
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
Very much agree with above comment. May 20, 2013

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