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Routes in The Balcony

Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobzilla S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Evil S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Rich Strang
Page Views: 3,453 total, 24/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the steep jugs up steep overhanging rock. A really nice route, crux is the first half of the route, after that, the grade mellows. Fun movement.

Location

Not in the main area of The Balcony, but go right (south) past the lower angle climbs, to the rightmost block. You cant miss the large overhanging cobblestone with chalked jugs and bolts.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
The twin 11s of Jug-or-naut and Rodent Outhouse are pretty similar. If you do one, you might as well do the other. Jug-or-naut is at least a letter grade harder... fewer big jugs to shake out on. Jun 13, 2010
ScottCThompson
  5.11b
ScottCThompson  
  5.11b
Stickclipping the first bolt may be a good idea for leaders at their limit. Otherwise climb above the bolt to the huge jug and clip from there, where it's also possible to clip the second as well. May 12, 2009