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Routes in The Balcony

Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobzilla S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Evil S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

A shorter wall now with a good mix of routes on it. Note that many routes have been added since the online guidebook. Routes courtesy of Vaino Kodas! Thanks again. See Vaino's website for a useful photo and updated info.

Getting There

Find your way to Super Slab, and look up. A large rock balcony, you have found it. Follow a trail that goes to the right, around a large rock, over a stump, and to the wall.

Route Order (From left to right)

Dr. Evil; 5.10b/c
Evil Medical School; 5.10b
Angry Sea Bass; 5.9
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams; 5.9
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery; 5.9
Cobzilla; 5.8
Chupacobbler; 5.10a
Mister Bigglesworth; 5.10a
Mini Me; 5.9-
Rodent Outhouse; 5.11 b/c (right of the actual balcony formation on another chunk of rock)
Jug-or-Naut; 5.11b (right of the actual balcony formation on another chunk of rock)

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Balcony

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mini Me
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chupacobbler
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jug-or-Naut
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mini Me 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Sharks With Friggin' Laser… 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Chupacobbler 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rodent Outhouse 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Jug-or-Naut 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Balcony »

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Photos

J J
Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
Good wall for shorter routes at El Rito, lots of moderates crammed into a small space. Watch out for hornets though, for some reason this wall is particularly active and can make for interesting climbing worrying about jamming your hand into hostile murder. Sep 10, 2015
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
As of October 2008 there are now two more routes on The Balcony put in by Vaino Kodas and Jen Payne. Angy Sea Bass and Sharks with Friggin' Laser Beams are second and third routes from the left respectively. (The routes would be numbered 02 and 03 using the numbering convention here.)
According to Vaino's website, they are both rated 5.9 but the opinion of a couple friends of mine is that Sharks with Friggin' Laser Beams is a bit tougher. See Vaino's site for more information. Nov 23, 2008

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