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Routes in The Balcony

Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobzilla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Evil S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne, 2009
Page Views: 138 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 12, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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The 2nd climb from the left end is relatively tricky and is one of the hardest lines on the main part of the Balcony. It angles up and right, with the crux moving past a bulge at about the 3rd bolt. The top half is substantially easier, as the cliff angles back.

As with many of the newest routes at El Rito, it's generously bolted with high quality hardware, and fun; though this one is new enough that we knocked off a couple of small chunks, but it will clean up nicely with more traffic.


7(?) bolts to a 2-bolt anchor


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Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
Keep an eye out on those pockets for inhabitants, multiple pockets on this route had hornet nests in them. Totally jacked the sequence for me, not to mention wondering if I'm gonna have to stab myself with an Epi-Pen. Sep 10, 2015

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