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Routes in The Balcony

Angry Sea Bass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Austin Powers, International Man of Mystery S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chupacobbler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cobzilla S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Evil S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Evil Medical School S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jug-or-Naut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mini Me S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mister Bigglesworth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nine Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rodent Outhouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 795 total, 6/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

The route is second in from an arete on the right side of the wall. Left of the the much better Mini Me. Follow a decent, juggy line past sketchy spinner bolts to the anchors. I hope the individual who put this route up has progressed in their bolt placement ability (the way these bolts sit away from the wall is not necessary). More difficult for shorter people.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
Those bolts are larger than 1/4", but yes, they may not inspire confidence depending on what you're used to. Oct 12, 2015
Finn Foster  
 
Do not climb this right now.
The bolts are 1/4" on the old SMC hangers that are skinny as hell and sketchy. Just look at the routes on the left and right and you can see the modern/safe bolts and hangers.
On top of that, my partner and I thought we could climb it without falling, but we got up to the first bolt and clipped at 360 degree spinning hanger and decided to un-clip and down-climb the route. Oct 12, 2015