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Routes in Second Sella Tower

Fata Morgana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glueck Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kostner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Messner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North West Arete - Kasnapoff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rechter Riss (Right Crack) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Sella Tower – North West Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 430 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Franz Kostner & Maria Gabloner 1905
Page Views: 553 total, 7/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 3, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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A fun route with a great second pitch. A great continuation of a traverse from the First Sella Tower.

From the notch between the First and Second Sella Tower, traverse across to the base of the three main routes on the Southwest Face. Take care, its a bit exposed with some loose rock.

Climb up and slightly right, then around to the left up a face to a ledge, then, up and left to the base of the penultimate corner pitch. 45m 5.3

Climb the classic, steep, exposed and fun corner pitch. If this terrain continued for a few more pitches, this route would get four stars! 45m 5.6

Up left, the straight up. Scramble up towards the summit, belaying when the rope runs out. 60m 5.3


Located on the west side of the Southwest Face of the Second Sella Tower. Approach via the notch between the First and Second Sella Towers.

The route is located in the larger looking right facing corner on the left side of the face. To the left of the Diedro Gluck (which is the smaller right facing corner in the center of the face).

Descent: Scramble around and follow a path towards the east. Down climb fairly steep and exposed terrain for a short stretch (5.3-ish). Traverse down easier broken terrain towards the Ciavazes. Cut back to the trail traversing from the First Sella Tower and down that trail to the base trail which leads back to the pass.


While the route is fairly well fixed with a few pins, its good to have a small selection of nuts and cams. A few long slings and draws will keep the rope drag to a minimum.
This route is exceptionally popular, mostly due to it's inclusion in several widely-read guidebooks as the middle section of the traverse of the 3 Sella Towers. Sep 14, 2014