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Routes in Second Sella Tower

Fata Morgana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glueck Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kostner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Messner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North West Arete - Kasnapoff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rechter Riss (Right Crack) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Sella Tower – North West Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gluck, Demetz 1935
Page Views: 530 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Mar 2, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Description general: This route faces the road and climbs up the center / left side of the prow of the second Sella Tower. It only takes 20 minutes to approach and the descent is straight forward and relatively quick. . The rock is good quality and there does not seem to be much traffic on the route (until it merges with the Kasnapoff route near the top) perhaps due to a relatively run out crux pitch. A nice route for a short day.

Pitch description:
Pitch 1 – 75 m II: Climb the easy third class up the center of the face
Pitch 2 – 30 m III: More easy climbing above then moving left to a stance below a yellow-black bulge
Pitch 3 – 30 m IV+: Climb diagonally left the horizontally across a grey wall.
Pitch 4 – 25 m VI-: Ascend the steep black dihedral past the left side of a small overhang to a stance on the left.
Pitch 5 – 25 m IV: Continue up passing on the left of the next prominent overhang
Pitch 6 – 25 m IV: Continue ascending upwards, near the arete, to a stance on a shoulder that intersects the Kasnapoff route (North face).
Pitch 7 – 25 m V+: Climb the bulge above to a smooth crack then push on another 10 meters to a good stance.
Pitch 8 – 45 m IV+: Climb a crack to a ledge left of an overhang. Move left onto the north face to a dihedral. Ascend the dihedral and the pocketed face above that are near a crack to belay on a knob.
Pitch 9 – 40 m V-: Pass a small overhang to a ledge, move right and climb a crack to another small dihedral then to a stance on the ridge.
Pitch 10 – 40 m IV-: Climb a crack to a ledge then easy terrain to a notch with large black blocks.
Pitch 11– 50 m III: Easy chimney to the ridge and then summit

Location

Location: Start near the center of the west face to the right of the lower steep section of the prow.

Approach – Park at Sella Pass. Hike up a very good trail to the left of the first tower towards the base of the second and third sella towers. Once below the West face, pick your way up the talus to the base of the West face. (15 minutes)

Descent – Carefully pick your way across the summit traverse along the south face of the Second tower, then descend easy ledges to the grassy area at the base of the South face and follow the trail down and around to the pass. (1 hour)

Protection

Protection: Standard Dolomite - bring 1 set of camming units ½ inch to 3.5 inches, one set of wired stoppers, a selection of threads, many long slings and free carabiners to reduce rope drag.

Photos

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