Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Second Sella Tower

Fata Morgana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glueck Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kostner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Messner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North West Arete - Kasnapoff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rechter Riss (Right Crack) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Sella Tower – North West Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 820 ft, 11 pitches
FA: Reinhold Messner, Gunther Messner. 1968
Page Views: 4,304 total, 34/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 26, 2007
Admins: Tim Wolfe

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a steep route up the north face of the tower. It is on good rock and follows a line up through the black water streaks.

Pitch 1 - Climb up a groove and then move right towards the black streaks.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right across the black streaks to the top of a small pillar.

Pitch 3 - Climb steep face up to below a roof.

Pitch 4 - Climb up through the roof and continue up a shallow corner.

Pitch 5 - Traverse directly right to a stance on a small ledge.

Pitch 6 - Climb up the groove, then move right under the roof and up to below another roof.

Pitch 7 - Climb around the roof and face climb up and left to the base of a ramp.

Pitch 8 - Climb the ramp, trending up and right to the base of a shallow corner.

Pitch 9 - Climb the shallow corner, then continue up a broken crack.

Pitch 10 - Climb up and right, mostly on face, to the large ledge.

Pitch 11 - Climb easy face to the top of the formation.

Descent - Follow a climbers trail east into the gully leading south between Second Sella Tower and Piz Ciavazes. Follow the gully to the base of the face and Sella Pass.

Location

The route ascends the north face of the Second Sella Tower.

Protection

There are a number of pins in place. Also take a selection of small to medium nuts and cam. Extra slings.
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a R
This is not an introductory route to the Dolomites so do not think of this as a warm up for climbs in the area. The route is serious – wonderful but not a warm up line. The rock is extremely solid for the Dolomites – but also takes rare gear placements due to that solidity. I highly recommend this line for the leader who is up to the level of difficulty far above any gear placements. However, if you have not climbed here in the past I suggest you do several other climbs at a more difficult grade in the area first to be more comfortable with the climbing style and gear placements. Be aware – it takes a long time for this wall to dry after a good rain storm. Jan 14, 2011
a classic route, very nice climbing,good fun, not many pegs, no bolts:) , and many threads. an excellent introduction to the area. as the route is fairly short, it can be done in about half a day. routefinding isn´t really a problem but not as obvious as it´s sometimes in other areas where you´re guided by pegs/bolts.
this is an historically quite important route as the messner brothers opened it climbing free, most other routes opened during the late 60´s were aidroutes or at least had some aid. so, don´t miss this one! Feb 11, 2010
Ben Lepesant
  5.10-
Ben Lepesant  
  5.10-
this is a mega classic on some of the best rock you'll ever find in the area. 4 stars! Apr 12, 2008