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Beautiful Flyaway
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Steve Grossman, Fig, 1981. Direct: Grossman, Steiger, April 2, 1983 . |
Page Views: | 1,199 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Sep 20, 2010 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Another typical Grossman FA. There are two starts, the original start, which traverses left onto the pinnacle's face from a ledge high on the right side of the crag, and the "direct" start, which begins on Face It but soon leaves the crack and diagonals right to underneath an obvious roof and a pin. The original start gains the face above the roof from the right, whereas the direct start turns the roof. Either way, a potential 20-foot fall exists off the crux, and a healthy 5.8 runout is necessary to reach the top. The direct start boasts one of the most wild roof moves at Windy Point, worthy of the 3 stars given here (two stars for the original). As an added bonus, Beautiful Flyaway (with the direct start) is one of the only routes ever to be pictured in the Tucson Citizen, the local newspaper (6" by 13", in color no less! (Nov. 14, 1985)).
By the way, rumor has it that the bolts on Jr. Gripper, installed in 1990, interfere with Beautiful Flyaway's head game. If so, I suggest they be removed.
By the way, rumor has it that the bolts on Jr. Gripper, installed in 1990, interfere with Beautiful Flyaway's head game. If so, I suggest they be removed.
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