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Routes in Mean Mistreater Wall

Beautiful Flyaway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crab Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Legs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crab Salad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dr. Crusher S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Slider T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Feelin' Fertile S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
German American Club S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grace Slick TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Irrational Inquirer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Loonatic Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mean Mistreater T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pegasus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rich and Dave Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sixy Lady S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Steve Grossman, Fig, 1981. Direct: Grossman, Steiger, April 2, 1983 .
Page Views: 449 total, 5/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Another typical Grossman FA. There are two starts, the original start, which traverses left onto the pinnacle's face from a ledge high on the right side of the crag, and the "direct" start, which begins on Face It but soon leaves the crack and diagonals right to underneath an obvious roof and a pin. The original start gains the face above the roof from the right, whereas the direct start turns the roof. Either way, a potential 20-foot fall exists off the crux, and a healthy 5.8 runout is necessary to reach the top. The direct start boasts one of the most wild roof moves at Windy Point, worthy of the 3 stars given here (two stars for the original). As an added bonus, Beautiful Flyaway (with the direct start) is one of the only routes ever to be pictured in the Tucson Citizen, the local newspaper (6”" by 13"”, in color no less! (Nov. 14, 1985)).

By the way, rumor has it that the bolts on Jr. Gripper, installed in 1990, interfere with Beautiful Flyaway'’s head game. If so, I suggest they be removed.

Location

To the right of the Mean Mistreater is an obvious wide crack beginning well off the ground. The wide crack is Face It (5.9; FA: Rich Thompson, Steve Grossman, 1976). To the right of Face It is a somewhat freestanding pinnacle. Beautiful Flyway essentially climbs the face of the pinnacle.

Protection

Wired stoppers and cams to 2 inches. I'm told that chains have been installed on top, but I'm not sure a 60m would be enough to reach the starting belay.

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