Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Meade, Cameron Guthrie (1988)
Page Views: 852 total · 6/month
Shared By: GDS on Jul 14, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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The line starts with good holds over a shallow flake and then onto a section of thin slab. After clipping the 3rd bolt, you'll face a runout section of dicey slab to the next bolt. You may continue to a thin mantle shortly after the 3rd bolt; a fall above this point risks ground fall. Retreating above the 3rd bolt also means reversing the mantle. The climb finishes at the anchors for the start of the second pitch of Mean Mistreater.

I am unsure why the bolt was never placed, or if it has been removed since the first FA. Squeezing II shows the runout well on the Mean Mistreater Wall Topo. A good route to avoid unless you are very comfortable with thin slab moves.


Bolt line starting to the right of Mean Mistreater.


~5 bolts, with runout between bolts #3 and #4. Double anchors for the rap/lower.


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Casa do Cacete
  5.10+ PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10+ PG13
Getting to the first bolt looks a little sketchy too. Nov 24, 2007
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
Link this into Pegasus(upper headwall) for the full value old-school pitch. The rock and moves on Pegasus are brilliant. Nov 17, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
or skip clipping the belay bolts and make a nice 50ft 5.9 runout from the last bolt on feelin fertile to the first on mean mistreater and finish on that climb. a nice, long direct line! Jan 4, 2010
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Pegasus! I was wracking my brain to remember this route. Absolutely brilliant! Why is it not listed? Apr 16, 2010
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
mmmm... because you haven't done it yet ? Apr 16, 2010
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Not done Pegasus? I'm pretty sure I remember doing that one. Little roof ... little pro ... It's the route Steiger put up, isn't it? I think I did the 3rd or 4th ascent -- maybe the first person to do it without a fall? Who would want to fall on that route!? I remember quite an audience. John Steiger belayed me. I remember telling him I was going to solo up to the start (didn't Pegasus share the first pitch?) and he was going to walk around to a ledge system with all the gear. As I approached the anchors I looked down and saw John soloing up behind me trailing two ropes and carrying all the gear! He's great. I think Davidson and Ringle were there, as well. Still, it's the one line I remember from Tucson so it must be the best climb in the Western Hemisphere ... or was that Desire? Apr 16, 2010
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Jeez Brad, I know you've done the ROUTE ! I meant "because you haven't entered it on this SITE yet". It's a communal effort, not someone's job.

I remember the route as being good but kind of scary. Apr 16, 2010
Isn't that the one you dropped the rack off of and then started yelling out that you were going to die until Ray and I ran around to the top and tossed you a TR ?

Bwwaaahhaahaa, just kidding. I vaguely remember being in the area that day and while it was a bit of a tense lead it went nicely.

Post it up... otherwise it will get retro bolted :-) Apr 16, 2010
Brad Parsifal Smith
Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Brad Parsifal Smith   Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Funny how age hasn't made me any smarter. Sorry, I get it now. I'll have to consult with the 1st ascent team before i post the route. As a matter of fact, why hasn't John done that?

I do remember someone crying on that route, Paul. When you say you were somewhere in the area, you mean you were hopping up and down trying to see over the brush as I climbed the route, right? It is okay to make fun of the vertically challenged? And where did you get 6'6"? Although, I suppose everyone over 5'8" must appear monstrous to you :) I'm only 6'4". Apr 16, 2010
JS only rarely sticks his nose in here. Probably because he'd have to end up repeating the guide online.... Apr 19, 2010